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Topics - WanderingWinder

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51
Game Reports / WW Annotated Game #1
« on: December 08, 2012, 02:32:14 pm »
I'm starting a series of reports, maybe once a week or so, of analyzing games I've played, similar to what used to go on the main blog. I'll post the set, let there be some discussion, then talk about what happened in the game.

The following cards come from a game I played recently against Stef. Please feel free to discuss the strategy you would go for here. I'll post my thoughts and the game later this week. Probably like Tuesday.

cards in supply: Bazaar, Cache, Colony, Forge, Gardens, Hamlet, Pawn, Platinum, Secret Chamber♦, Tournament, Worker's Village, Workshop, and Young Witch

52
Dominion General Discussion / Tactics
« on: December 04, 2012, 09:56:59 pm »
This is a thread I am starting for people (well, me, but I would love to see other people post things as well) to post nice little tactical strokes, as opposed to strategic ones. Tactics are an enormous part of the game, but not one which is so often focused on. There's going to be theoretical examples, and there's going to be specific bits from games, too.
Anyway, without further ado, let's bust into examples.

Example 1: Theoretical.
The board is terrible and you're playing BM/Oracle (let's assume the rest of the kingdom cards are so bad you never ever want them). You open oracle/silver. Turn 3, your hand is E/E/E/C/O.
A.Your oracle turns up copper/copper. Should you keep them or pitch them?
B.Your oracle turns up silver/copper. Again, keep or pitch?

Example 2: Practical.
http://dominion.isotropic.org/gamelog/201212/02/game-20121202-220853-3cb74c10.html
Looking at this game from my point of view (I WILL post games where I make mistakes - this may be one! - as well as nice finesses from my opponent (there's one in a video yesterday which let Rabid crush me...); this is what I have at the moment).
You're playing a highway/golem/woodcutter deck, maybe looking for possession at some point. Your opponent is playing somewhat similarly, though he already has a possession, as well as an envoy, but no woodcutters yet. Opponent's turn 16. You're holding Estate/Estate/Copper/Woodcutter/Potion. You 'lead' by 4 duchies and 3 estates, with 2 provinces each (so 4 left). You've lost the highway split 4-3 but have 3 golems and 3 woodcutters to your name (and very little else in terms of economy). Opponent plays highway, highway, then golem into highway/envoy. Envoy draws Potion/Possession/Copper/Copper/Copper. What do you have him discard?

_____________________________________________________________________________________

Answers(?)
1. A.  Keep them! This way, you have 3 this hand, which is all you want, and you ensure 6 next hand - again, all you want!
B.pitch them. You know you're drawing copper copper after, and since you want to buy a $3, this is fine. Thus, you want the increased cycling - it pumps the estates into your deck faster, but the oracle, silver and your purchase (I think another silver?) as well. Note that if you wanted to grab a $5 on the board, keeping would guarantee that you could get it on the next turn, so you'd sit.


2.The clearest thing here is that you give him possession. If he plays it, which he can of course, you're pretty happy. Whether copper or potion is less clear. There's a very good chance he has enough to buy province or possession, but the question is which you'd like him to have less, and at this point, I think that is province - I may be wrong though...

53
Variants and Fan Cards / FBI - Fancy Balance Issues
« on: August 21, 2012, 10:08:40 pm »
So we all know that balance is a huge issue when designing dominion cards. You can't make a card that is so powerful that you play it all the time, and it totally dominates everything (even though it might be fair, because everyone has equal access), because that makes things very formulaic, and not very fun. Similarly, you can't make a card that's so weak that you never ever ever use it, because that's really boring too. Okay, scout got printed. But you know what I mean.
But there is this other issue that is absolutely related to this, which might even be worse. And that is the card which, most of the time, is basically worthless, but in that pretty rare occasion where it's useful, it's game-warpingly dominant. This is what I call FBI - fancy balance issues. I know from first-hand experience, this is really easy to do. And the tricky thing is that, on average, the card is at a reasonable power level. It's just that in any individual game, in every individual game, it is not.
This leads to another tidbit of note about power levels; there are ten kingdom cards in every game, and most often, most of them are not going to be used in the optimum strategy, and that's okay. If a card is useful in half the kingdoms it is in, that's great design. If it's only good a quarter of the time, that's fine too. So long as it's not degenerate in those cases.




54
Dominion: Dark Ages Previews / The Bold Predictions Thread
« on: August 20, 2012, 10:16:57 am »
Well, yeah, we already have the make-fools-of-ourselves card analysis game. But this thread is particularly for the cards you think other people will mis-evaluate. Here is your chance to be the first to point out the IGG rush, or that JoaT is a really good card, actually, or that Jester really isn't all that hot, or whatever, but for the Dark Ages cards. And let me tell you, I have some bold predictions to make here.

Count - Well, as I've already said, I think this card is probably better, on the whole, than Mandarin, but not very good, and a below-average 5-cost. Great for Duke and Silk Road, pretty good for gardens, decent if you can spike one on turn 1-2, pretty mediocre otherwise.

Rebuild - I think this will be one of the most powerful cards in the set. Think about for a second, that it takes basically 6 plays of this card to get your starting estates into provinces (and it's non-terminal!). And then probably you can buy duchies relatively easily and turn them into provinces fairly quick. I mean, 2-3 of these, then buy only green will be a pretty good BM strategy, on the speed order of JoaT. Yep, I'm going to make that claim. Now, you can run the risk of drawing these with too much green (you need it to be in the discard pile). But this also works really well with decently good non-drawing terminals at the sub-$5 level (monument, militia, maybe swindler). And it's going to be very nice with sifters like warehouse. And it's really resilient to just about every kind of attack. Finally, it's a nice anti-engine card, because you burn through VP as you go, lowering the 50% of VP game-win threshhold fairly nicely.

Beggar - I mean, okay, the card is pretty terrible. But I bet it helps big money okay, actually. Combos with counting house. And great with alternate VP. Hmm, maybe that's not so bold.

Hermit - See, I think this will be hardly worse than JoaT, but more conducive to many different strategies. This can certainly be a darling for engines where you have a cheap enough engine component. Or you can play it like Jack. Really strong, though, I expect - being able to trash so targetedly will be very nice.

Hunting Grounds - at 6, I don't actually expect that this is very good.

Ironmonger - Already talked about this too, and I think this card compares pretty favorably to tournament, actually, and if we are to believe chwhite, that is the best 4-cost card. I would be pretty darn shocked if this isn't a top-6 4-cost, and wouldn't be surprised at all if it's even better than that.

Squire - I firmly expect that this will be the 2nd-best 2-cost card, after chapel. Oftentimes, you'd rather have courtyard or fool's gold, and sometimes if there's terrible attacks, lighthouse, but I really expect this to be better than hamlet.

Urchin - Well, really this is about Mercenary, which I expect to be not that great at all. I think massing urchins early will be terrible. But this will be fine in engines, where silver is no longer important, and the attack, while it doesn't do much, can be sorta nice.

Feel free to get in (civil) arguments, call me crazy, or make your own bold predictions.

55
Dominion: Dark Ages Previews / Things we DIDN'T see in the previews
« on: August 10, 2012, 11:29:57 am »
And still expect to:
A treasure card that does something when trashed (dougz - I think it was him, maybe it was Donald - mentioned that there is a card in DA that makes it important that the cards actually hit the trash from thief; hmmm, but he also said that in practice, this won't matter, so maybe it is not this)
A curse-giver (though with the looters, this set might not have one)
A more conventional trasher (a la chapel, steward, remake, etc.)
A card with Village in the name
The 5th ruins
The 2nd upgrade card (a la hermit/madman).
The other 2 looters
The other 2 ways to get spoils
More cards that interact with things in the trash somehow, rather than just being trashed
Some reason why the shelters type is important, other than colour....


And which we now don't expect to see
....yeah, pretty much anything seems in play to me now.

56
Dominion: Dark Ages Previews / How Dark Ages affects existing... things
« on: August 08, 2012, 11:44:42 am »
Mostly cards. For example, steward gets a lot better, chapel gets a lot better (every trasher seemingly gets a lot better), saboteur has a bunch more interesting interactions, scout is now the best card in the game....

But also other stuff - the simulators are going to have  lot of trouble, I think. Play rules are really complicated on a lot of stuff now. When do I trash stuff for the for-trash benefits? When do I cash my hermit in for a madman? When do I not play something? Which squire option do I take? When do I play poor house? What the heck am I doing with my graverobber? On and on, it seems. Which, hey, is sort of cool, because it means that the set is shaping up to be a lot more tactical than the ones that came before.

57
Introductions / All Good Things...
« on: July 03, 2012, 02:56:52 pm »
Of course the title of this post is intended as a reference to the saying which ends '...come to an end.' Indeed, this aphorism is a false one.

I have a degree in Physics. I don't have a full time job. I love crunching numbers. I have a background in chess. My real passion - well, of the things that will get discussion here, as my REAL passions are my faith, and people - is philosophy, and particularly ethics, bout which I am writing a treatise in my spare time.

I have been an extremely active member of the community, and so you may be wondering why after like 3000 posts, and almost two full months of logged-in time, I am posting an introduction. Well, it's largely a farewell. Not that I will leave entirely - or, this is not my intent anyway. But I may not post at all for long stretches and certainly will be much much less active. There are a number of reasons for this decision: the apparent increase in unreasonableness of the so-called community, it's growingly inhospitable nature, a large number of disagreements with a large number of people on a large number of topics.
Moreover, though, there are simply far more important things for me to be doing, and for me to be spending my time on. This thing is just very low on my priority list, so it is the thing that gets the cut. Especially as it's a big time-sink. If you want to reach me, there's my youtube channel. And you can e-mail me at wanderingwinder AT yahoo DOT com. Please don't flood with spam.

Fare well, readers.

These Are The Voyages...

58
Dominion Videos and Streams / Video Etiquette?
« on: June 29, 2012, 12:31:28 pm »
Shortly after I started doing videos, we had a discussion on the etiquette and permissions of other people playing. I don't remember what we all decided, and I can't seem to find that discussion now. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
I ask because I've had somebody request to not video the semis for the qualifier, and if it were just a random game, I wouldn't care, but being as it's a tournament match, I like to have complete records of these. And so I'm not sure what I'd going to do on that.

59
Dominion General Discussion / Oscar The Grouch
« on: June 23, 2012, 09:28:06 am »
You know, the CouncilRoom achievement.

I used to think 'oh, that's the Forge achievement'. And I would guess that Forge is still responsible for the majority of these. But I've noticed that it's not as near-all-of-the-achievements as I used to think. If I look through my page on this, it's not responsible for all THAT many of the OtG achievements.... And I always really like it when you see this from some other source. So this is a thread for listing those non-Forge Oscar the Grouches that you think are cool.

17 of my 25 are forge-induced. Here are the other 8:

http://councilroom.com/game?game_id=game-20120429-124331-7aeae753.html Features a big Mining-village and farmland turn. 11 cards trashed.
http://councilroom.com/game?game_id=game-20120529-195628-a8ce8913.html Mining Village, salvager, and farmland
http://councilroom.com/game?game_id=game-20120428-095732-c9e4e59e.html Bishops, two of which were KC'ed
http://councilroom.com/game?game_id=game-20110303-191442-1d42f407.html The original 'we ran out the curses and coppers' game. Goons/watchtower for the trash.
http://councilroom.com/game?game_id=game-20110205-123709-5be272d7.html A game with forge, but here it's the mint that does the trashing.

Finally, my new favorite way to get the achievement, and I think probably the 2nd-most plentiful (I kill myself sometimes ;)): Horn Of Plenty.
http://councilroom.com/game?game_id=game-20120618-090228-1c276b91.html
http://councilroom.com/game?game_id=game-20111129-102918-a64477d6.html
http://councilroom.com/game?game_id=game-20120616-181348-f2324ff1.html

60
Variants and Fan Cards / Pin
« on: June 22, 2012, 02:24:24 pm »
This is the most interesting and innovative card I think I've ever thought up

Pin
Cost: 5(?)
Reaction-Attack-Duration
Whenever an action card is played, you may reveal this from your hand. If you do, place this on top of that action card. Both of these cards remain in play until the end of the game. (At the end of the game, all cards go back into their owners decks).


Basically, you pin a card to the board, and it stays in play all the time. There's probably some rules clarifications or rewordings or something that need to be made. The most common use, I expect, is to just take a card out of your opponent's deck. I pin your KC, you can't use it anymore. But it also has some interesting interactions with durations (maybe?) and 'while in play' cards like highway, goons, etc. Pin your own goons, and then every card you gain for the rest of the game gives you a VP chip. Pin a highway, and everything is permanently cheaper (but for everyone!)

61
Dominion Articles / Thinking From the End
« on: June 19, 2012, 08:34:09 pm »
        Thinking From the End
        In keeping with established principles from a lot of games, in Dominion, you want to 'think from the end'. In essence, focusing on what you need at the end of the game will help you figure out what you need to do earlier on. Anticipating what moves are going to come down the pipe, from both players, helps you determine what to do now.
   How this applies to dominion is this: there are four game-end conditions (sometimes only three, sometimes just two; but four are possible). Your goal, in any game, is to manipulate both the scores and when the end of the game happens. It's all nice and cute if you get out to a big lead, but can't seal the deal by ending the game, or if you can build a deck that does anything and everything, but can't grab points at any appreciable rate with which to catch up.

        Overarching Principles
   Working from the very end, we'd set up the following principles:
   1. When on  your turn, you see the opportunity to reach one of the end-of-game victory conditions, take it. Absolutely take it. (Note: if there are multiple ways of doing this, which is relatively common, any of them works).
   1a. This is sometimes very difficult to calculate. Thus, it's usually really good to know what piles are liable to end for a three-pile ending, where the goal-posts are for reaching an insurmountable points lead, and most importantly, the scores of all players, in order to work things out more quickly. As much as possible, take your time and calculate things out.
   2. If you're absolutely certain that a particular play will allow the opponent to end the game with a win before you get another chance to do anything (i.e. you three-piling while behind, buying the penultimate duchy, which will be the third pile, whilst he has a KC'ed Merchant Ship in play), don't make that play.
   3. And it starts to get fuzzier...
   Let's assume we're still in the deep endgame for a moment (and by deep endgame, I mean the game might be ending at any moment now):
   At this point, you have two competing variables. You want to minimize the chance that your opponent can win on their next turn, but at the same time, maximize the chance that you can win yourself on your next turn.
   
        The Nitty-Gritty
   For instance, you want to think twice about buying that conspirator/grand market/insert engine component here, because it will make it that much easier for them to three-pile, and you lose. At the same time, don't be too too scared of grabbing things, if you need them to miss out anyway. Here's where taking risks really comes into play. If buying that card gives them a chance to end it, but not buying it means there's no way you'll get a big enough turn to be able to win yourself on the next turn (or, earlier on, in the near future), then you just have to roll the dice and hope they don't get a good enough draw. Because if they do, you were lost anyway.
   It's really important to note that the point spread is really important, even when considering such pile-depletion options. If I buy a [generic engine component], it's one buy closer for your opponent to empty out piles. But it's also one fewer buy for you to empty piles, and if you've got the lead, you have to add in all the buys/gains for him to retake the lead ON TOP of those needed to empty the piles in order to be able to win.



   Specific Deck Types
        Money
   Money decks largely play themselves. There's some anticipation in terms of variable-VP alternate green cards, etc, etc. But there's fewer relevant decisions. Having said that, there are still lots of things you need to be watching here.
   If you're playing a BM-BM matchup, watch the points, and watch your deck quality. Luck in the draw will be big, but also extremely important is to know when to turn green. Typically here, there's two things you're gunning for. Running out the provinces (colonies if applicable), or grabbing half the VP available. The former tends to be more important than the latter, but you need to watch out that you're not going to stall too hard, especially when decent alternate VP options exist. You don't want to green too early, and get choked out, but you also don't want to green so late that you are blocked from buying the important cards for too long. The provinces get a little bit of preference than the half-the-VP in this matchup, because coming from behind by buying cheaper stuff is just so much less money efficient. Keep PPR in mind more here than anywhere else, but you also want to keep track of relative strength of decks, duration cards in play, and how many of your opponents' (and your own)
   If you're playing in a  BM-vs-Engine matchup, things are a good bit different. Watch out to see how they're going to come back on you. Is it by tapping in the large potentials of variable VP cards? Then you have basically two options: buy out ALL the provinces (so spend a lot more time building up than normal), or get a lead and then block those alternate VP hard to close their lanes off. Facing more of a conventional engine? It's a race for either half the VP (usually recommended) or all the provinces. The big thing to note in either scenario is that you have goal-posts which are moved well apart from a the BM-BM matchup, and you need to change your play accordingly. Rather than gunning for four-provinces ASAP, you probably need to settle into more of a long game. Typically you're going to be faster than the engine, and so you need to get that lead, and then cling to it, blocking off their avenues of escape. If you can't maintain lead OR deck quality (and engines are eventually almost invariably of higher deck quality than BM, it's just a question of if the game will last long enough), you should've gone engine.


   Engines
   Engine vs. BM. Presumably you have a reason you went engine. There's a few different kinds of engines around here, and they play a little differently. Typically, most engines nowadays seem to be centered on getting some great big mega-turns. And in most engines, what you DON'T want to do is cash in your chips too early, by hunking off a bunch of green too soon. Sure, it can level the scores a bit, but your deck is likely not so resilient to green, so you're trading away your big deck-quality advantage. In these kinds of decks, you usually don't want to touch green until very very late - typically the turn that you want to end the game on, though sometimes you might just pull the trigger when it gives you a decent-sized lead, if you're worried about them ending it on you too soon. The big thing, though, is to hold off for more or less as long as you can.
   On the other hand, you might be just playing a cards/actions engine which has some nice attacks to it, or just because it's a nice little chain of cards that are very easy to put together. In these cases, you tend to use a greening strategy much more like BM's. Typically, you green a bit later than BM anyway, especially if you have some buys handy to be able to knock off some province+duchy or even duchy+duchy turns if you're behind far enough. But you can't really afford to wait around forever if you can't get a real big mega-turn. And if you have attacks to choke out your opponent, you can be ok to come back for a decent while anyway.
   
   Engine vs Engine. Typically, these are the most complicated endgames in all of dominion. Again, you want to keep rule 1 in mind all the time. And you want to keep in mind that your opponent is also keeping that in mind. So you want to take very careful stock of what exactly your opponent can do on their next given turn. This is typically easiest when they're drawing their entire deck, but the important things are how many buys (or gains) and how much money they can grab. You also want to know how reliable it is that they get all this stuff. Basically, you want to know how much damage they can do, and try to make sure it's not enough to kill you. Something really important to keep in mind is with gains - if they have a strong enough engine, they can gain a bunch of things mid-turn, then draw them, then use them, increasing the amount of stuff they can pick up to more than what might otherwise seem apparent. Keep out of range of them, while increasing your own range of destruction. And snap down the win as soon as you can. Very often, the three-piles (perhaps on random-seeming things) are really important here. And, as mentioned before, you want to keep of a lead when that starts to become a big factor.

        An Example
   I'd like to check out the end of this game against -Stef- to show you a little of the ropes here. By turn 12 or so, we're drawing large portions of our decks. Actually, he's about drawing his entire deck, whereas I'm drawing large chunks of mine. But what's important to note here is that he has 4 pawns; I have 6. I have 4 highways to his one. And he's got 4 silvers and 2 coppers with 3 peddlers to my much much less money (well, it's just my original coppers, the 7 pawns, 2 peddlers and the 4 highways). He also has a trading post, which he might be able to use to get a little more cash than me. So he has a lead in points, a lead in money, and he's much more likely to be able to draw everything than me, but I have more buys and more cost-reduction. Okay, I play my next turn, and at the end, I've got 4 highways in play, all 7 coppers, my potion, and a couple of peddlers for cash. This gives me a LOT of options. I can't really go for a game-end at this point though, because pawns are the only pile out, and whilst scrying pools are down to 2, I can only nab one of them. More importantly, I'm 9 points behind. So while I actually COULD have ended it, I couldn't do that AND take the lead. So instead, what are my options? Well there's lots. I end up using my 5 buys on 2 provinces, a border village->highway, and a couple of (free) islands. I could have bought the scrying pool, and really, I think I ought to have, because with only 5 buys, there's no way he can pile out on the next turn - espcially when he'd have to take the lead back from me, and 'waste' at least one of his precious buys on a pool. The Islands are nice in that they're free points and also actions, the BV is another action, and the source of +actions lets me have some options on my pawns, and the provinces give me the lead. Also, even though there's only 4 provinces left now, I know I'm ok there, because he doesn't have enough buying power to use all the buys to grab them.
   On his next turn (13 for those following at home), he doesn't quite get through his whole deck, but ends up with the highway in play, 12 coin, and 5 buys. I have a 7 point lead. He's actually in really bad shape. He needs lots of points, and can't manage all that many (more highways would have REALLY helped him out). And he has to worry about my piling out. You may think he actually also has to worry about me getting the last 4 provinces - but he doesn't, in fact. Well, not really anyway. I would have to use every drop of coin in my deck, AND be able to use 3 pawns for coin and 3 pawns for buy, in order to get all the remaining provinces. If I get that perfect a draw, well, he's going to lose anyway. So, but he does buy a province, which we might already question, because it gives me some options there. And he buys an island over a duchy, and then three peddlers. The problem with the three peddlers is that it makes piling out a MUCH easier job for me - my best chance to pile is by grabbing BVs to pile them out and piling something else as well, and 3 fewer peddlers means that 3 more of my gains can be VP - which helps me out a ton. If I were him, I'd probably recognize that to have a good chance, he's going to need to get a really really big turn on his next turn, which means more highways for him. You think he needs VP too, but it's a lot of money to take the lead, and that's not going to leave him with much chance to do enough on his following turn. He almost NEEDS me to have a dud hand. So I would go for probably the 4 remaining highways here.  Maybe 3 and a duchy, maybe 2 and a BV->highway and an island, something like that. And then soak peddlers with the extra buys. The idea is that he probably needs me to have a dud hand (and with 7 coppers, a potion, 3 estates, 2 provinces, 2 islands, and a couple stables I need to have connect with treasures to do anything, this is possible. But it's unlikely it happens to me on consecutive turns. So he probably needs to play for a really big turn on his next.
   On the last turn of the game, though, I don't have a dud, and I roll through a lot of stuff, get all my highways in play, and run out the Border Villages (and peddlers, concurrently), and then pick up loads of duchies - way more than I needed to overcome my 1 point deficit - to win. If you look at it, I could also have grabbed all three remaining provinces, had I played my pawns differently. But it didn't really matter, at that point, as I calculated one win and took it.

   Combo
   Combo decks... it really depends on the combo. Basically each one has its own way of playing, and it has more to do with that particular combo works, rather than some over-arching principle of combo decks. Golden decks chew up provinces until the game is over (or golds if you're far enough behind or something). Native Village/Bridge tends to not want to pop until it can either have all bridges on mat, or secure game victory. Chancellor/Stash runs for 4 stashes, then races green. Point is, it really depends on the deck.


62
Dominion Articles / Oracle
« on: June 15, 2012, 11:29:59 am »
Oracle is one of my irrationally favourite cards. A fun, clever little novelty. It's not super strong, but it's not amazingly weak either. A nice card, a nice power level - hey, I like it. Now for analysis.

The big thing with oracle, well, is the filtering. Without the filtering, it's a moat. Let me tell you, moat for engines isn't that great (though not totally unusable). And moat for big money is also weak as all get out. (This assumes that moat's defensive function is negligible, of course). But the filtering gives a lot to this card, both in how it effects you and in how it effects your opponent. The thing is, the card is very deceptive.
It looks like the benefits to you and the attack on your opponent is totally even, totally mirrored. But in reality, they play very, very differently. This is one of the biggest reasons that the simulators play the card rather poorly. The attack part is largely "Are these better-than-average cards for them?" with a little bit of cycling concern. The sims play this okay now, thought it could definitely be improved - you definitely want to know what your opponent is doing, and what's in their deck (how else are you supposed to know what average is?). I suppose also, it depends on the number of oracles you play in a turn. Totally average (sans cycling issues) is the benchmark for one oracle, but if you're playing more, you really want to stick them with something bad - if you have more cracks at it, roll the dice. But you should play the filtering portion on yourself very, very differently. Basically, what you want to do here is ask yourself, do these cards give me a meaningful advantage right now, given what I know about my hand? The knowledge of what's in your hand is huge, and it makes a big difference on how you play things. For example, I'm playing mostly a money deck, and it's toward the endgame. My hand is silver copper copper oracle province. I play and find silver copper for me. Now, this is quite possibly better-than-average here for you. But what will you do with it? Buy a duchy. So usually, in these situations, you want to roll the dice - it's very unlikely you won't get at least $1 back to buy your duchy anyway, and there's a chance you get to your province. Similarly, if in the same situation, my hand is Gold silver copper copper oracle, and I turn up province copper, I'm keeping those buddy - yeah,, it's a sucky draw of two cards, but you know, I don't need a good draw; it's good enough, it ensures me a province, so keep and laugh your way to the bank. No, not the card.

The thing is, Oracle looks like a draw card, and it is a draw card, but it does not play very much at all like other draw cards. It's a drawer+filterer. Whereas most draw cards let you draw lots of cards, the only way to get oracle to really work for you is to have it draw the right cards. Whereas with something like a smithy-based engine, you can draw your whole deck (or close to it) relatively easily, this is going to be a tall order with oracle.
To illustrate what I mean by this, I want to look at an oracle-festival engine. Yes, oracle-festival. I played this against a strong opponent once, and I distinctly remember him saying something like 'What? But that's no net cards!' (Actually he phrased it differently, but he was shocked at how such a terrible strategy could be doing anything good). The point is, playing festival then oracle leaves you, at the end of things, with the same number of cards you started with. You are just spinning your wheels. But every time you spin those wheels, you pick up some money, you pick up a buy, and most importantly, you get the filtering, which gives you a pretty good chance of having those wheels keep spinning, so you ARE making progress. And you get a little attack on your opponent in the process.

Oracle is at its most powerful when it turns your opponents good cards over (you can make them miss a power card for a whole reshuffle, a strong attack) and when it turns your weak cards over (skip them - a strong filter). When you always use it to put cards back, it's not really better than moat. Having said that, this means it's good with cards that will have opponents' good cards on the top of their deck (maybe big scheme/alchemist/treasury chains? -it's pretty rare), or cards that bring the top of your deck to be pretty junky. This means it works rather poorly with something like scout (as if this card needed negative synergy!) and cartographer, but possibly good synergy with something like apothecary, which often leaves you with a couple green cards on top. It's also good against, say, your opponents' ghost ships - just ship your worst cards to the top of your deck, and skip them.


I find that oracle is a bit better in engines than it is in money, simply because you get more out of the filtering effect. Yes, the filtering can help you in money, but it tends to help more with engines, where you need a certain type of card and can hunt for it. Also note that you should basically never skip past a pair of your own cantrips (unless you're out of actions), as the benefit of doing this is just getting to the next two cards, which... you get to anyway with the cantrips! There may be some weird reshuffle exceptions....

Speaking of the reshuffle, the last point to talk about here is cycling. Now, I don't think cycling is a HUGE factor on how you should play oracle, with the following caveat: if going fishing for a better set of two cards will trigger a reshuffle, you really need to consider this as part of your decision-making process when you're trying to figure out whether to hold what you have or roll the dice with two new cards. If you've got lots of good cards in hand or play, you should really consider holding two even less-than-average cards. For instance, if you've got gold silver copper estate oracle, and flip up copper estate, early in the game, you really want to consider keeping this if you'd otherwise trigger a reshuffle. The reason is, of course, that if you go fishing, you might get your province, but you for sure lose your gold silver and oracle for another reshuffle, which is something you don't want. And how much better is province for you than gold at this point anyway? Conversely, if you've got a hand of junk, you might want to throw back a couple of above-average cards, just to make the junk not be in your next reshuffle at all.


Works with:
Engines
Opponents' ghost ships
Opponents' alchemist stacks
Apothecary
Stash

Doesn't work with:
Monotonous decks (i.e. jack and trader do it very few favours)
Opponents' farming villages, loans, and ventures (that they can re-order the cards they put back helps them way more than you)

63
Dominion Isotropic / Logs
« on: June 14, 2012, 06:26:12 pm »
Every single iso log is now giving me a 404 error. I've heard of this problem before occasionally for old logs. But these, whether it's a game that was played today, a weak ago, last year, I'm getting the error. CouncilRoom logs seem to be working fine. And I know that other people aren't having this problem.
I'm working in FF, but popped up an IE tab to check, and it's the same thing there. Suggestions?

64
Dominion Articles / Contraband
« on: June 13, 2012, 10:50:37 pm »
The name of the game with Contraband is options. Well, use of the buy, too. But mostly options. In, say, a standard big money deck, contraband is pretty bad. Early on, they can pin you off of gold, and later, they pin you off of province, which just makes it very difficult to win. And indeed, in any case where you're really needing one card, it's not going to be good for you. It's also rarely good in multiples, because if one thing doesn't totally block you, two much more likely will - they can pick different things, people. It's weird - contraband tends to be best in engines, because those tend to have the most different cards that can help you, can make use of the buy, and proscribing just isn't as big a deal.

Because of the enormous complexity of choices, the card doesn't simulate so well. So unlike most of my articles, there's no sim data backing this stuff up. But lots of thought and experience.

Before we go any farther, I think it's important to note a couple of tactical items about playing contraband. The first is that you don't have to play it! Many times, in the ending, you need to be buying a particular card - say a province. Well, if you can afford the thing anyway, just don't play the contraband! Second, if you do play the contraband, you pretty much want to play it first, before your other treasures. The less information you give to your opponents, the better, as they can't know what to proscribe nearly so well. This leads to the corollary that Contraband is not so good with the handful of cards that reveal your hand to your opponent. Menagerie might be the biggest exception here, especially when it goes off, but even it can have some weakness. Moreover, it's pretty bad with hunting party, crossroads, etc. - really anything that gives your opponent a good guess at what you've got in your hand. This means that draw-your-whole-deck probably makes playing contraband a bit of a bad idea too.


Playing with Contraband:
The biggest thing is that you need here is, as I said, options. So big things here are nobles, harem, hoard, goons... the de facto anti-contraband strategy early on is to block gold every time, so any time there's something you might well want more (which usually means a 6, as a 5 you would have bought over contraband in the first place) is good. And anything that you want almost as much is also fine. Of course, later on, the main thing to block is province, so alternate VP can help a lot too. The important thing here is that you need to maintain some flexibility. If you're so locked into your duchy/duke strategy, for instance, they cn block duchy all the time early, duke all the time late, and your ability to buy province or gold doesn't help you so much. Of course, even so, you have SOME options here - duchy or duke, as we're assuming you can pull off a good number of one or the other on your non-contraband hands anyway - so it's not as though Contraband is a super terribly BAD card here.

I'd like to draw particular note to fairgrounds here. Not only is it a nice $6 target, and a good source of alternate VP, which can lead you to have them only block one of your 6 VP targets in the endgame, leaving another free, but you also want most every card here. So no matter what they block, there's going to be something else for you to pick up. It also makes pretty good use of the +buy in this way. Here is a game where I use contraband with a bit of an engine, mostly a big potpourri of stuff, to pump up fairgrounds and help me win a long game against ddubois. Of course, it also features Nobles, so it's really a model game for contraband being a nice card.

The other nice kind of card to help you is a trash for benefit card. Stopping you from getting gold is pretty good in the early game, but the real drawback is the endgame blocks. I mean, usually, you're able to pick up a couple components to help you if they block that gold - two silvers at least. Being able to get some benefit out of it later on, particularly with its 5 cost, is thus very nice. Salvager, apprentice, Expand (very nice because 7 cost cards give you options just like a lot of 6s do), I'm looking at you. Also upgrade effects (dark ages leads to increase in contraband usage? You heard it here first.)



Playing Against contraband:
The big thing here is to get a read on your opponent, and what it is that they're most wanting to buy. Now, at the very basic level, this is most often gold, then province later on. But this is very very often not the case. For instance, some other card can be more powerful than gold early on, you may need to cut them off from the KEY card they need in their action deck (the only source of draw or buy (well, other than contraband), or even more wonderfully sometimes, the only source of +actions). But most often, the story changes here in the endgame...

If you have a lead against a contraband player, you can do some very cruel things to them. If they need to buy provinces, first off, you can block them - this works pretty well from behind, too. But more importantly, there can really come times where provinces don't cut it, and they're going to need a lot of duchies. Block them from duchy. I cannot stress enough how important this can be. If they're going to need lots of silk roads to come back, block them from that. In a great twist of events, if they've played six goons, you probably want to block copper.

Here's a game against -Stef- where he uses a contraband together with his apothecary engine as... basically his entire economy (mine is not so much stronger). (Note: apothecary is very very fast, doesn't have tons of staying power). So, note what I do here. Early on, I prohibit gold, which seems pretty standard. However, I continue doing this for quite a while - indeed, there were multiple occasions where he drew his ENTIRE deck, played contraband, and I knew he was holding $10p, and I prohibit... gold. Now, why did I do this over blocking him from province? Well, I knew that eventually, if I needed to, I could block provinces later on. Because all the money in his deck was 10p, and 3 of that was tied up in contraband, I knew that he couldn't possibly by a province without one. Indeed, instead of province+apothecary, probably one of these times he should consider province+copper. Anyway, I have that in my back pocket, but more importantly, I'm expecting that he will start to stall out at some point, which in fact he does. If he never stalls, I'm probably just dead, because although I have a lead (which was really important too), I will almost certainly stall as well (and I do). Then we get to the really interesting part of the game, where I start blocking him on... duchies. Thing is, he's behind, and he needs to get duchies to come back, so this is actually fairly well a no-brainer. (I do make mistake in this game on turns 17 and 21 at least by not buying copper). But check out the key moment on turn 22. He plays 4 apothecaries and 3 caravans, of which I know he's drawn at least 3 coppers from the apothecaries, and some other specific stuff. He plays contraband, and I sit for a good while, thinking over what to prohibit. It was a very close call, but I didn't think he had the cash, and blocked duchy. Indeed, at least as important as that, I thought that if he DID have the cash for a province (which would have been game-winning), I was very likely to lose anyway, based on all the other goodies he'd be able to buy there. This is another important principle of what to prohibit: if there's two choices, leave the one open which, if they have the money for it, puts you in a worse position either way. I.e., if you need good luck to win, play for that luck.

Also, playing from behind, in a situation where they can three-pile end, you absolutely need to be able to use that contraband prohibition on cards from a pile for them to run out. I'm pretty sure I've blocked curses before (though it's very hard to look for that kind of log). In these situations, you're very often lost either way, but you need to at least give yourself a chance.

Keep your wits about you (this is a bigger problem on isotropic than IRL) - if they remake 2 cards, play contraband, well, they only have 1 card left in hand, and if it's early enough in the game, there's a good chance you KNOW they don't have a gold - so don't prohibit a 6-cost, as you already know they can't buy it. Similarly, if they reveal their hand, for menagerie, for a bureaucrat, for whatever, pay attention. If they put back a card, pay attention to what that is. Pay attention to where they are in their reshuffle, and what they've already played/discarded. Most important, pay attention to what's in their deck. You want to know what they have, so you know what they're capable of, and you want to know what they want to get, so you can stop them from getting it.





Overall, it's not a very good card, but a lot better than the plague some people tend to think it is, in the right circumstances. And the kind of game it can create is a lot of fun, and can make for quite a lot of skill, and a kind of skill you don't get out of many other dominion cards.

Works with:
Flexibility!
Apprentice
Upgrade
Salvager
Hoard/Harem/Nobles
Fairgrounds
Expand
Alternate VP
Goons (ish)
Engines where you aren't drawing your whole deck and you aren't stuck to needing one particular component

Doesn't Work with:
Hunting Party
Menagerie
Crossroads
Getting Stuck needing one thing (a la a lot of big money strategies)
Venture (which can force you to play it at an inopportune moment)

65
Dominion Articles / Wharf
« on: June 13, 2012, 12:35:12 pm »
Wharf is arguably the best card in the game which you cannot use to give a curse to your opponent. It's great for big money. It's great for engines. It's not great in rushes, but then, it's pretty good at beating them.
Hunting Party is pretty clearly the second-best non-attack $5 (if we call IGG an attack here anyway, which is not technically true - and these might be better than IGG anyway). And it's entirely outclassed by wharf, pretty much all around.

Now, why is wharf so powerful? Basically, it's a Council Room that's split over two turns, with an extra buy, and most importantly, which doesn't lab your opponent. If you play one every turn, it's EXACTLY like CR minus the drawback (and with an extra buy). And Council Room is already a decent card, even with the drawback. Now, you do potentially need more wharves than you would council rooms to pull it off. But in practice, this isn't much of an issue most of the time, - you can actually get way more wharves than CRs without collision being a huge issue, thanks to the duration-ness - and giving your opponent free labs is much more important. Breaking down wharf itself, we see that it's moat with a buy right now, which isn't so special but not totally terrible, but essentially a worker's village+smithy combo guaranteed with each other next turn. And wharf has all kinds of other comparative advantages to council room as well. If there are actions you want to have played before your last terminal, wharf is a better way to do it, because you get  significant amount of that draw at the beginning of your turn. This is a strength for engines, mostly, but also good in big money.

Money
If you believe the simulators - and for big money matchups, they're not perfect, but you largely should - wharf is the 5th-best single card for big money, after (go figure) Young Witch, Witch, Mountebank, Sea Hag. Yes, it beats familiar. Pretty handily actually. And the thing is, with most of the cursers, 1 curser into wharf is going to be very good on such boards anyway.
Now, how do you want to play Wharf for money? Well, there are actually several viable ways, depending a bit on what your opponent does. But in general (and say for a mirror), you want to get a couple wharves before gold, pretty much no matter what, and then get a good bit of money, with a third and maybe fourth wharf, before turning for green. In fact, it almost plays a little like an engine, because whereas with something like Smithy/BM, you want to green pretty fast - only a couple silvers and a gold is enough - with wharf, it's even a little stronger, typically, to build up a little extra more buying power before turning green. This also lets you take advantage of all those extra buys you probably have.

What works with wharf in money? Well, the first, obvious thing are your special treasures. Wharf and fool's gold is silly strong. Wharf gives you the two things that FG wants - +buys and big handsizes. Similarly, bank and wharf love each other. To a lesser extent, venture and cache can be nice, if you have lots and lots of wharves already and hit $5, and I guess Royal Seal and... Stash, which is more or less silver for you in these decks. It also works with good utility BM cards, like JoaT, though remember that wharf is the star here - doublejack with a little wharf support is not so good as wharf with jack support.
How good is Wharf-Big money? It's stronger than other money strategies, first off. It's also stronger than most simple combos. Chancellor/Stash, Treasure Map/Warehouse, Tactician/Vault, fuhgeddaboudit. Hunting Party + Terminal Silver? You need something like baron or monument to make it worth it. Embassy/Tunnel? Not unless you stop the wharf player from buying tunnels to pad his score. Native Village/Bridge... maybe. It's hard to tell. But probably Wharf dude can get a lead and then you have to be VERY careful about piles. Golden Deck... okay, you got me. Usually.


Engines
Like most draw cards, building an engine is not going to just materialize out of sticking in a village. Wharf/Money beats Village/Wharf, typically unless that village produces money for you. Bazaar and festival probably give you some modest gains over straight money, even without other help, and fishing village... well, fishing village is fishing village.

Bigger exceptions to this rule, though, come in the form of the $2 villages. Native village and hamlet are nice things to pick up with a spare buy here and there, and they're cheap enough that you can cobble together an engine pretty nicely with all your spare buys. Crossroads is the real star, though, giving three actions and, moreover, taking advantage of your bigger handsizes itself, as the green you'll pick up can really really help. Also, I'd be remiss to not mention border village. Very very often, you want to buy wharf on $6 anyway. The BV is a big bonus.

Engine-wise also, what the card gives you is zillions more cards. Other card draw qua card draw isn't necessarily bad, but you usually want wharf instead. Now, if it holds a good attack, a la margrave or ghost ship, you might make an exception for a copy or two. But the bread-and-butter of the engine should almost always be wharf, because it's just more powerful.
It's also important to note that wharf engines build a good bit differently than those based around other draw cards. Basically, you need fewer villages and/or can support more other terminals. The reason for this is that you only need to actually play half of your mighty nice draw cards every turn, even while reaping the benefits of those you played last turn. So when I build a wharf engine, I usually start Wharf-wharf-village-wharf and then alternate. Well, okay, usually it's more complicated, because I want to get other stuff, too, but you really don't need that many villages to support the draw part of your engine. And the +buys are very nicely and plentifully built in.

And now, a word from our sponsors about trashing. Trashing helps you here, as it does with most engines. But enormous trashing isn't as big a deal here as it often is, as you can easily end-up over-drawing, and you don't have that much time to out-run the big money. Furthermore, you generally want your trashing to do something useful for you later on. So remake has good utility, as does steward. Chapel a bit less so. Ambassador, as normal, is good (but watch out for wharf/money decks - they can soak ambassador attacks pretty well). But something like lookout, moneylender, spice merchant, trade route... well, it's not that they're useless. But generally, the plusses they give you are fairly minor for the time investment, given how much you have to put into them anyway.

Okay, but what other stuff can make you want to go engine over money with wharf? A LOT. Coppersmith can be worth its weight in gold pretty often. Outpost hands are at least normal sized, often larger. Any kind of discard attack is good - you won't need many copies of it. Cards that like big handsizes are good too - bank is still great here, forge can be, etc. Indeed, most kinds of cards with nice effects will make the engine at least reasonable. Some won't - cards like minion and lab don't do you nearly as many favours as they normally do, something like fortune teller is still weak, and tactician... well, you're basically losing half of wharf's advantage with tactician. Which doesn't mean it's never worth it, but once again, it's comparatively much weaker.



Works with:
Bank
Fool's Gold
Crossroads
In engines with coppersmith, outpost, most anything good.


Doesn't work with:
Hunting Party
Lab
Minion
Most other terminal draw
(It's not really that ^^these things are really actively bad, just they don't really help, at least not nearly to the extent they normally do)
Tactician
Mega-rush strategies, like Ironworks/Gardens

66
Dominion Isotropic / Another little etiquette question
« on: June 13, 2012, 10:06:28 am »
So, recently I was playing a game with a seemingly pretty reasonable-minded opponent, there is possession and a discard attack, and we have this interchange (name removed for his protection, as well as which discard attack it is, to make it a little harder for you to sneak out and find out)

16:15 OPPONENT: have you a good hand??
16:15 OPPONENT: or you discard good cards?
16:15 OPPONENT: ^
16:15 OPPONENT: tell me please :p
16:16 OPPONENT: i played 3[discard attacks] so you should have discard good cards...
16:16 OPPONENT: i dont like bluff!
16:16 WanderingWinder: why would I tell you?
16:16 OPPONENT: i know
16:19 OPPONENT: gg
16:19 WanderingWinder: gg



So what happens is, he plays a discard attack against me, and he wants to know whether I've kept a hand that is good, in which case he should possess me, or which is crummy, in which case it serves him better not to. Now of course, the uncertainty about this is huge when you're in my position, i.e. the one under this combination of threats.
Do people think this is acceptable? I mean, It's not really a huge huge deal, because well, I just don't tell him. But it's just sort of an annoying, needling, whining, and seems a bit unsportsmanlike to me. But I guess maybe bridge players out there would think this is par for the course?
Thoughts?


67
Dominion Articles / Thief
« on: June 09, 2012, 11:23:39 am »
(Note: This article is dealing with 2-player dominion. Thief is a lot better, and in many ways a different animal, in the multi-player game; as a quick note, a concept like thief-gardens is a real thing there. And it keeps getting better with more players - while generally still not being super-strong).

Thief is a card that consistently gets tossed up as one of the very worst kingdom cards in 2-player dominion. It was voted THE worst $4 card in Qvist's rankings. According to CouncilRoom, it is one of the least-bought cards, it has the WORST 'win rate with' and one of the best 'win rate without'.
And you know, it is really bad. It sucks.

BUT, it's not SO bad. I certainly don't think it's the worst card in the game, or the worst card at its price-point even (we're looking at you, scout, in both instances). And there are situations where it's handy, or even downright good. Let's explore.


A little bit about the card first. Noble Brigand looks just like an improved version - and largely, it is just that, a much-improved version. The exceptions are when you can steal some more exotic treasures - platinum, cache, venture, bank, and especially something like fool's gold or Ill-gotten gains. These give thief a bit of a leg-up. But hey, it's still not great without some major help.
At what point in the game do you want thief? Well, that's sorta tricky. The problem is that buy thief, reshuffle thief into deck, play thief and steal nice treasure, reshuffle that treasure into your deck, play that treasure... well, it takes quite a while. A lot longer than just buying the treasure.So you need to steal some multiple things to make it worth it. Which means buy it early. But on the other hand, you need to actually hit those good treasures, and at the beginning of the game... you're coming up copper an awful lot. To answer the question, it depends on why you want the thief. Which brings us to...

But in which games do you want thief at all? (It's not many).
First of all, let's say the board is really bad. I mean REALLY bad. I mean like, there is nothing going on, you're buying... literally big money. Thief helps you out here. Thief+big money is better than big money. And you want the thief... right away. You may come up copper a good bit early, but a) trashing their copper is bad, but not THAT bad in pure BM; keep in mind that their economy is largely copper-based at this point; b)if you are able to snag an early silver, it's pretty massive against a BM opponent. It helps you a good bit, but you have to look at it as an attack, too. But okay, these boards are super rare...

Probably the best-known case of good thieves is in super-trimmed money decks. If your opponent has chapeled down to the point where silver and gold are a significant portion of their deck, they are ripe for attack - it can cripple their economies, which are dependent on only a few cards (meaning that stealing one is a big blow), and you get a nice benefit in the process. Of course, it's very rare to get a good opponent caught in chapel-big money...

More likely, you have a mediocre-ish board with some pretty good alternate VP. Let's say duke. Thief is pretty excellent here, because it gives you longevity, which you need for the long game, and because you both actually want those coppers. Here is a game with Duke and Silk Road where I use thief to good effect. Here's another one where I use thief to help out with a Harem/Silk Road strategy.

Perhaps the most important role for thief is attacking coppers in those rare situations where they are very important. If your opponent is using moneylender for some form of big money, this is an even better situation for thief than chapel-thinned decks. Moreover, thief can really eat into aptohecary-based strategies and some coppersmith-based strategies, and presumably counting house-based strategies. Again, this doesn't come up that often, but you need to keep your eyes on thief when those strategies are around, because it can be a very hard counter.

Finally, thief can be useful in engines where some treasures are still important. My #1 exhibit for this article is this game against Marin. Both of us build up nice engines, and then we both get thieves. Now, the thieves don't look like they do THAT much (though they are mildly helpful), but their big function here is to limit the treasures either of us want to buy. In an engine like this, where you can really draw everything, you often want to expand, just a little bit, your buying power with some treasures. But the prospect of thief is going to put slight dampers on that. In this situation, the stolen treasure helps them, too, and helps them immediately. Of course, you don't have the greatest chances to hit, but it can be a strong consideration anyway - and one both of us saw fit to go for.

Works with:
Opponents who have very few actions
Opponents' trashing, particularly copper-trashing
Alternate VP
Copper-philic strategies

Doesn't work with:
Virtual money
Most actions, which are better.

68
Dominion Articles / Young Witch
« on: June 08, 2012, 02:59:20 pm »
Young witch is one of the very few crds whose value is most variable from game to game. it really really depends on that bane card. We've had games where you get a fishing village bane, and the card is basically garbage. And we've had games where herbalist is the bane and...

Well, I actually think the first place you want to go here is, how strong is Young Witch if you ignore the bane. So, if there were no bane. Which will be the same thing you get if the bane isn't bought. Young witch is VERY strong here. Hands-down better than sea hag. In fact, if there were no bane, it would undoubtedly be the strongest $4, and actually pretty squarely the best card in the game, to my mind. Yeah, it's that good.
Now, even in those situations, it's sometimes skippable. Number one is the other card that would have a really strong case for best card in the game, ambassador. But also, decent trashing and a good engine, you can maybe skip it there, too. But very little else.
Why is it so good? Well, look at witch. Witch is super super powerful. I think it's the best curser in the game, and as cursers are in general like the best class of card, it's quite near the top of all cards in the game (yes, yes, you can make a reasonable case that mountebank is better - it's board-dependant). Anyway, baneless young witch has some pros and cons compared to witch. You have to discard 2 cards. Now, this makes it weaker, but... well, early, this doesn't really hurt all that much, and later, you have so much curse slog, it still doesn't hurt THAT much. And the big difference is that it is 1 coin cheaper. And the most important 1 coin. That's huge! You can just get to the YW faster, meaning play it more, meaning win that curse war pretty convincingly, and the game follows, in the heads-up, and really any matchup.

So, I think there's this notion that very often YW is ignorable, and this is just, well, virtually never the case.

But we have to look at the bane cards, now don't we? If we look at the other extreme for a moment, if the YW is always blocked, it's a pretty lousy card. Not totally worthless, but... well it's a terminal mini-sifter. You'd definitely do better with warehouse. Or about a billion other cards. Of course, even in situations where the bane is good, you generally can't rely on 100% blanket blocking. So YW has some utility even here. Not necessarily enough to get, but some utility.
And now we get to the heart of things. Middling Banes. Let's pick on woodcutter here as an example. What are your options on a 4/3 split? YW/Silver, YW/Woodcutter, Woodcutter/Silver, Woodcutter/Woodcutter. You can play Silver/Silver but I would not suggest it. Of course, there might be some other important cards, so go ahead and open amb, and maybe chapel. But let's assume there's no ambassador or other important cheap cards, for the opening anyway, at the moment.
Things get extraordinarily complicated here. Thing is, we know that W/W is a bad opening against, say, BM. So if you do that, can't they just react by playing more of a BM thing? Sure. If you open YW, can they get an advantage by going W/W? It depends on how well the draws go, probably. If their Woodcutters avoid collision, then it's probably pretty good for them, because not only are they not colliding, but they're also pretty protected. But this is pretty unlikely to hold up for so so long. Which leaves us with YW/W vs YW/S. Well, how often do you want a moat with witch?
Probably I think you should get the bane pretty often - you get crushed without it, if not mirroring anyway. But even more often, you want the Young Witch. So I think pretty often you end up going for more actions than you're probably normally comfortable with. Of course, lots depends on the specific banes, and on what's on the rest of the board. But winning the curse split is MASSIVE.

Okay, one more hypothetical case study I want to look at. Sea Hag with YW/Mediocre to bad bane. Well, thing is, people will say Hag is better. But the only way this is true is if there's an appreciable chance at a bane block. So what do you do? Well, I would probably open with the hag. I'm not sure whether it's right to get the bane or not (say it's a woodcutter again). Probably I wouldn't, because I want a second curser. If THEY go for the banes, follow up with second hag. If not, go for the YW as second curser.
Here's where the intricacies come in. If they play straight hag, you're better off going with YW. If they play YW, you're better off with Bane/Hag. But you're better off with just Hag than Bane/Hag, if they don't get YW. So it's all about timing, and when is it too late for that bane to do you enough good, and when is it enough of a problem for them to have to get the bane to make YW-Hag worth it.

If you were expecting some kind of fully comprehensive strategy, well, you're gonna be disappointed. Because the card's just too complicated. For me anyway. I hope this helps though.


Works with:
Tunnel
Weak banes

Doesn't work with:
Ambassador
Good trashing with a good engine
Strong banes

69
Dominion Articles / Merchant Ship
« on: June 08, 2012, 12:44:00 pm »
Merchant Ship: An old card that never changed.

...

Wharf: The original version didn't have the +1 Buy. It got that to compare more favorably to Merchant Ship.



Merchant Ship (I will refer to it, perhaps unfortunately, with the abbreviation MS) is one of my favourite cards. It's a great card. But I think it's often underrated, because it's such a simple card. It's a solid card. Let's break it down.
First of all, it's a duration card, which has a big impact on how you look at it. Beyond this, it's a terminal action. And it provides virtual coins. Now, being a non-drawing terminal duration tells you a good idea of how many of these you can sustain. But how good of a card is it, when do you want it, and apart from how many you CAN have, how many do you want?

Well, the effect of giving $4 split up over two turns is typically stronger than gold, which gives $3 in one turn. Yes, concentration can help things, but that's a whole extra money. The big drawback, and THE reason you want gold over merchant ship sometimes, even with the higher cost, is that MS is terminal. But, being a duration card, and being non-drawing, you can sneak some more of these into your deck than you would with normal terminals.

And just by itself, big-money wise, you can get it to be roughly on par with BM-Smithy, BM-Envoy, BM-Oracle, these kinds of decks. It can form the backbone of an economy. Most BM decks rely mostly on golds to be able to get to that province. Jack decks rely on a billion silvers, but even there, gold is important. In MS decks, Gold is very nice, but the MS are key. 2 MS (you can have 2 in play at once - the benefits of duration terminals!), and 4 copper or more commonly a silver and 2 copper, there's your province. And a 2-coin head start next turn.
Of course, like many duration cards, the MS effect is the same now and later - which makes it better on your next turn than it is now. Now, it's just a terminal silver. Next turn, it's like you've played two treasuries before your turn starts. Which hey, ain't bad.

But the real strength of MS, I think, is in how it plays with other actions. BM-Smithy, it's really hard to add other actions and have them help you out. BM-Merchant Ship, on the other hand, you can add all kinds of other stuff to. Swindler on the board? Slide over to opening that, and ease up on the merchant ships a little bit later. The same is true with lots of other good opening terminals. And merchant ship also plays nicely with cantrips, which a card like smithy won't. So a lot of times, this non-engine deck that still relies on a good number of actions, but plays more like a money deck, is possible. And MS is great here. Especially since those MS you shave off, you can usually do by getting gold over MS on 6 (in BM-Merchant ship, you want to prioritize MS>Gold a good bit).

I would be remiss, of course, if I didn't mention how it plays in engines. It plays fine in engines, but not great. I mean, it's a terminal, and one which doesn't give +buy or +actions or +cards or any kind of attack to slow the opponents down. In short, it doesn't really give you any of the things engines really need to be viable. BUT, if there's an engine already around that you want to play, and you can spare an action here and there, 1-2 MS are a great addition to provide coins, not needing as many actions or taking as much space up as other terminals, while still providing coin at least on par with gold.

Overall, a very nice card, not so often super-stellar, but most often a strong, nice addition to your deck.
And as for that Donald X. quote... no, it's not in the same league as wharf. But switch around which one has the buy...


Works with:
Non-draw terminals
Money decks
Anything that needs consistent coin production
Cantrips
Generally useful cards, so long as they're not terminal draw

Doesn't work with:
Terminal draw

70
Game Reports / The Over-hard Counter
« on: June 04, 2012, 04:40:10 pm »
Now we know there are soft counters and there are hard counters. And then there are what I call over-hard counters to attacks, i.e. it's actually beneficial to me that you attacked me. One obvious case is watchtower vs. Torturer. If I want to keep my hand, I just trash that curse. If I want to be able to increase my card draw because I have a couple junk cards in my hand, I can actually use your attack to help me there.

Anyway, probably the best-known of these, which I've heard as 'the perfect counter' and 'too good a counter' is Horse Traders to minion. And it's really good. But, oftentimes, you need to do something a little more, because HT+money is not such a hot strategy. So actually fairly often you end up buying both minions and HT - they work decently well together, especially with some villages thrown in. Here is a game which was very satisfying to play, where I used scheme to up the ante on the HT goodness, getting six card hands and a nice HT benefit over... and over... and over again, and notching one of the more satisfying wins of my 'career'.

71
Dominion General Discussion / Which Cards are the least fun?
« on: June 03, 2012, 07:52:30 pm »
Well, you probably know why this is getting written. But in case you don't, it's a response to this thread, which, by the way, I highly recommend.

This isn't a thread to throw hate at the worst cards in dominion. Yes, we all hate the chancellor and thief and transmute and counting house and scout already. But no, this is a card to discuss which cards we like the least. So even though Jack of All Trades is really strong, lots of people are going to dislike it, because they think it makes the games formulaic. Indeed, lots of the most annoying cards are strong - and their strength against you is part of what makes them annoying! At the same time, cards don't HAVE to be strong to be hated - we're looking at you, saboteur.

Anyway, I'm probably going to post a more comprehensive list later on, but for now, I'm going to get the ball rolling with a couple cards I don't expect to be SO popular on this list.

Masquerade: This is absolutely one of my least favourite cards. It would be much less unpleasant if it weren't actually really good. But it is - the combination of card draw and trashing. And if it were just that, it would be fine. BUT... the passing. Well, it's sorta often like an attack, and an unblockable one. So not only does it lead to the most infamous pin in the game, in all its forms, but it also is just annoying as a follow up after a 'normal' discard attack. But I think the biggest thing is... it's really hard to ignore the card. It's really hard to say 'yeah, I don't need masq this game'. Because normally you do. But it also doesn't look like it really goes super-great with lots of stuff either, at least in my head. Which gets my mental pattern into this rut where it just wants to inertially default to BM-masq every game it's on the board. Which is good, but not THAT good. And annoyingly boring.

Minion: What a weird card. I hate when I play it for money, because it's just a silver then, you know? And then I hate how formulaic your basic BM-minion deck is. And it feels that way too often, discarding means you're just spinning your wheels. But if you try to add stuff to it, you get to "well, shoot; do I pitch this hand, like I would in the canonical minion deck, or do I forego that, because this card won't come back if I cycle that much?" So, it's certainly possible to slam some villages in and basically just use minion as the attack+card draw portion of your engine, with some other terminals (or I guess, non-terminal cards and maybe not villages)... but somehow I tend to overlook this possibility until it's too late, OR to get the terminals before the villages in my turns... le sigh. And that discard attack, it's surprisingly strong.

72
Game Reports / I Marin somebody
« on: May 25, 2012, 06:54:05 pm »
http://councilroom.com/game?game_id=game-20120524-161602-5f458e83.html
Always fun to do this. My basic plan here is to university into a city/rabble/governor/militia, later on GM, engine. Now, you may think this is really similar to another board where I say BM should be dominant - what gives? Well, first of all, the BM there is better than here (courtyard). Second, apprentice helps the guy in the lead. Third, We have university to gain a zillion things here. But most importantly, militia, which should really help me out a lot. It's very hard to buy a province off of 3 cards...
Anyway, I make a mistake right off the bat, I think, by not going Black Market at the offset. But then, pretty bad luck strikes. Turn 3 is a dud. His turn 6 and turn 9 both have really terrible militia hits for me, as both times I have potion/copper/copper/university/estate. Le sigh. This all slows me down a LOT at getting militias and getting my engine going, which I'm intending to really pound into him with. And he thus jumps out to a big-time lead. Now, I do grab a highway out of the black market, which is big, because it lets me university GMs (though I stupidly don't realize this at first on turn 18...), and a margrave, which gives plus buy but doesn't help all that much really, and herbalist - same thing. I don't get the sea hag that I really really want though.
So he sprints up to 5 provinces and starts to stall, just a bit (not surprising given that he's greened, and moreover, I'm rabble stack + militia-ing him all the time). Meanwhile I'm able to chow down on the GMs and the cities, which I can do with surprising impugnity, as he doesn't really have prospects of emptying a 3rd pile, or any cities to bulk up. And my mega-turns start flowing... I'm able to crash down the victory just in time, more or less. If he has one more duchy, 'I'm dead'*.
*Well, sort of. If he has one more duchy, I he probably has one fewer estate, and I'm fine. Moreover, I can potentially grab that sea hag (I get the chance without needing it on my last hand) and an island from the BM for the last little boost.

73
Game Reports / This Game Goes Everywhere
« on: May 25, 2012, 06:40:45 pm »
http://councilroom.com/game?game_id=game-20120524-132142-fcc44fe7.html

By which I mean, I can put it in a moat thread, a governor thread, a bishop/golden deck thread, or my engine thread. Well, with all that stuff, it goes everywhere.

Okay, very interesting and some things to note. KC/Saboteur is powerful. I'm fairly sure it would be like dominant, except for a couple things. One being that KC/Governor can more than keep up, if you gain a billion golds (though the sab still makes at least somewhat of a statement there). The other thing is the moat. Moat is a really key card here, and part of the game plan from the beginning. Why? Well, very often you get the case where someone is using governors to draw lots of cards, then attacking you (usually a handsize attack to knock you back to 3). Ok. In these situations, it's very very handy to have a couple of moats, because you're actually fairly likely to draw them with your opponent drawing so much for you, and if you do, then you do get to make use of your mega-hand, totally protected. It's a very high reward, for taking on what's not THAT bad of a card. It's something to keep very much in mind.
At some point, probably a couple turns before the end, I could have picked up an expand (prolly off a governor remodel), and used it to end the game. Alas.
You do need to be a little conscious, and I wasn't as soon as I should have been, that with drawing all these cards into his hand, a decent amount of his deck is de facto protected from my saboteur attacks.
On the other hand, my main 'gain a bunch of stuff, draw everything, bishop for a zillion points, grind his deck with some KCed Sabs' plan was pretty good, I think.
Anyway, a fun game, which I didn't play optimally, but had a nice couple of tricks in.

74
Game Reports / Contraband Can be good
« on: May 25, 2012, 10:31:06 am »
http://councilroom.com/game?game_id=game-20120524-064325-747b030f.html

No, contraband isn't like the key card for a strategy here. But it is quite helpful.
Ok, the first thing you're thinking is that you can beat this with BM. Wrong! Well, I think it's wrong. Because of the noble brigand. If your opponent goes for something too BM-y here, you spam those noble brigands, and it really slows him down. Meanwhile you start to build stuff up, and you have this alternate VP mine. Well, still something tells me there's some improvements to be made, but I also think both of us got some decently bad luck. Ok.

Now, why is the contraband helpful? Well it does a lot of things. First, it ups the fairgrounds. Furthermore, it's non-NB-able money. It gives buys, which I really want. Maybe most importantly, though, there's lots of good options at 6. I want gold, I want nobles, I want fairgrounds, at some point I want duchies and provinces too. So banning one thing does not hurt me too much. This is a situation which actually comes up a fair amount with contraband, and while usually you don't prefer it to gold if you have the option, it is a little cheaper too.

So, this is close to an ideal board for contraband. But it can also be useful in a number of other situations.

75
Dominion Articles / The Thing With... Duration Cards
« on: May 24, 2012, 06:26:11 pm »
The Thing with... Duration cards.

Not a long article here, and I don't think this is ground-breaking or earth-shattering to lots of people, but it needs to be out there.


They miss reshuffles. Much more often than other cards. Because not only can they miss the reshuffle if they're the last 0-4 cards that don't fit in a hand, but they can also get caught if you played them the turn before your hand draw triggers a reshuffle. As your cleanup drawing is usually at least a very significant portion of the number of cards you draw... anyway, they miss the shuffle a lot more often.
This effect is further exacerbated by card-drawing durations. Outpost, tactician, caravan, wharf, haven, we're looking at you. In fact, I'll go so far as to say that one way or another, for much of the game anyway, tactician USUALLY misses the reshuffle. Engine play also make this worse than it is for big money, because you're cycling more, reshuffling more, and therefore missing that reshuffle more. Of course, missing a reshuffle in general is less important in an engine deck, because you do cycle more.

Similarly, though, these cards will collide less often. Particularly this is important for terminals - you can buy more terminal durations than you can other cards, because they're less likely to collide, because one will be out (often having missed a reshuffle).

So, their effects are generally more powerful than those of 'normal' actions, seemingly, because you get to play them less often. The effect is spread out over two hands, which makes it more likely you get to play it only once every two shuffles. If they ALWAYS missed the reshuffle, the one-turn power of the cards could be comparable to 'normal' cards. As is, they're a bit weaker, because they don't miss THAT often, but at the same time, twice something that's a little weaker than normal, and they're still typically strong cards.


You also want to note that the balanced-looking effects aren't actually balanced (mainly I'm talking merchant ship, caravan, lighthouse, and wharf here; it's biggest on MS and wharf). The second turn is much more of a boon than the first turn, because on the first turn you have to spend an action and a card in your hand playing it on the first turn, and you don't on the second. So caravan is a cantrip now, lab next turn. Wharf is moat with a buy now, smithy with a buy next turn. Etc.


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