[btw, at the end of 8th turn it says that he draws an Estate 2 Coppersand a Minion, while his 9th turn is:plays 3 coppers and a silver:buys a city. I don't get something from these game logs]
Isotropic has it's own point tracker in 'info' and that's the only point tracker it can do anything about. I don't know if there's a bug (I doubt it); if you're seeing the chat message announcing the point tracker, that's drheld's extension and automatch won't be able to avoid it.
If the options are set generously, you can type !disable to disable the extension for this game; otherwise you can tell what you're getting into by checking your opponent's status message before you accept. If it says 'Auto▼Count' then they are using the extension and have disallowed disabling, and you probably shouldn't accept a match with them.
All that said, give the point counter a try! It lets you make much more meaningful and informed decisions during the endgame, and it's all public information anyway. Even without the point counter, your opponent could always just be writing it down (I sure did before the extension showed up).
Another guy tried to "tip" me that contrabands should be the last treasure you play..
I hate torturer. When my opponent opens 5/2 and there is a native village/hamlet, I'm ready to quit.
Black Market is either fun or a game-breaker, depending onthe cards in itwhether or not I draw the good cards from it. In a recent game, my opponent bought a ghost ship from the BM (with no attacks on the board) and then a King's Court for the BM. Talk about being lucky...
That said, if I lose 115 to -3, and I say "gg"...you can assume that's a snarky comment. Chances are what's coming out of my mouth doesn't start with g's...
I had an idea similar to the Shapeshifter above.
Illusion
$4 (?)
Choose one of the following:
- Name a card. While Illusion is in play, this card behaves like a 0* copper.
- Name a card. While Illusion is in play, this card behaves like a 0* estate.
- Name a card. While Illusion is in play, this card behaves like a 0* action card (that does nothing when you play it)
So that you can trash your estates/curses with mine/mint, or make your scrying pool more efficient. The 0* price is so you cannot use this to buy provinces at the price of a copper.
(maybe you should change the 0* copper to a 0*, 0$ treasure card, and the 0* estate to a 0*, 0 VP victory card, but I wanted to be able to play Baron or Moneylender with this card)
I'd like to see it switched to just a random player goes first. It discourages re-matches since the winner knows they're definitely going second vs a... dunno 1/4 to 1/3 chance of going first if they play somebody else. And other weird matching effects.
— testinganstrategy's turn 15 —
testinganstrategy plays a Native Village.
... getting +2 actions.
... picking up 18 cards from the Native Village mat.
testinganstrategy plays a Native Village.
... getting +2 actions.
... drawing a card and placing it on the Native Village mat.
testinganstrategy plays a Native Village.
... getting +2 actions.
... drawing a card and placing it on the Native Village mat.
testinganstrategy plays a Native Village.
... getting +2 actions.
... drawing a card and placing it on the Native Village mat.
testinganstrategy plays a Native Village.
... getting +2 actions.
...drawing a card and placing it on the Native Village mat.picking up 3 cards from the Native Village mat.
testinganstrategy plays a Bridge.
... getting +1 buy, +$1, and reducing all costs by $1.
...
Play rules are also simple:
-Play Native Village for Storage as long as opponent doesn't have 24 VP more than you
Else:
-If you hold more than one native village: play for storage, if you hold only one: play for cards
-Play Bridge
If you were to buy saboteurs on your first 3 turns thenthe deck would be a -6 (3 estates = -3; 7 coppers = -7+7 = 0; 3 saboteurs = -3)you would be cheating.
I came across an interesting alternative rule designed to help balance the first player advantage. I haven't tried it myself, but I've always been intrigued:
Instead of actually playing the first two hands, allow every player the opportunity to choose the two cards (or one card) they would like to buy. Neither card may cost more than $5, and both cards combined cannot cost more than $7. Shuffle them into your deck. Then, the player who spent the least gets to go first.
I see a lot of benefits to this: a) It speeds up the opening round by skipping the initial shuffle of the deck, b) Removes the luck factor that benefits anyone with a 5/2 split with the right tableau, and c) Gives the first turn advantage to the player whose deck should be mildly weaker than everyone else's.
