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Topics - KingZog3

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26
Game Reports / Longest game in a while
« on: December 20, 2013, 06:19:39 pm »
This game was insanely long. I don't know if he just didn't know what he was doing or what, but wow this was like at least 30mins. Every decision seemed to take him a solid 10 seconds, like every card. Maybe it just felt that long, but still.

http://dom.retrobox.eu/?/20131220/log.51467e35e4b0de86766bf3f3.1387581154047.txt



Code: [Select]
Pawn, Develop, Storeroom, Feodum, Talisman, City, Embassy, Merchant Ship, Mint, Mystic
It's not even that great a board. I go Embassy BM, and he goes... Cities? I have 6 Colonies before he really starts to get anything, and it's great he can pull up $50, but he can't buy points because I have too many already. Anyway, just thought I'd share.

27
Goko Dominion Online / I think I'm being slow-played
« on: December 19, 2013, 01:26:20 am »
I dunno where to post this. Just frustrated that I'm being slow-played. I played the same guy a couple times. He beat me the first time, then I beat him 4 times in a row, and I'm winning my 5th game (It's a torturer game, and he went treasure map, and I'm playing 4 torturers a turn). Then again, maybe goko crashed. It hasn't said he has connection problems.

Just annoyed. Plus I want to go to bed, but I can't just resign. I have to out stubborn him.

28
Game Reports / Did he lose because of Doctor?
« on: December 09, 2013, 09:45:22 am »
In this game I tried a Duke/Duchy game with Hunting Party. I won 43 to 21vp, but my opponent claimed the only reason he lost was because he misclicked Doctor when he had $8. But even if he had bought another Duke, I had more Duchies, so I don't know where he got that...

http://dominionlogs.goko.com//20131209/log.51467e35e4b0de86766bf3f3.1386599493871.txt
(Just the regular old goko log)

Also I wanted to know if Counterfeit was the right open. I think it was, but I had trouble hitting $10 sometimes, so maybe I could have added something extra to my deck? I did buy a Death Cart near the end and that worked out, but I was afraid maybe the extra names would stop my Hunting Parties.

29
General Discussion / New QotSA Album
« on: November 20, 2013, 08:25:59 pm »
Does anyone here listen to Queens of the Stone Age? Or should I ask if anyone has got their new album?

30
Dominion Articles / Pillage
« on: June 04, 2013, 01:31:27 pm »
        Since my Marauder article got up on the Dominion blog by Theory, I thought I would write another one. I put more time into this one, but Pillage is harder to write an article about. I'm sure there is lots that can be added, so make suggestions and I'll add if needed.

        When I first got Dark Ages and was looking through the cards, I saw Pillage and thought “This is the epitome of one-shot cards.” Everything about Pillage is temporary. It self-trashes when you play it, Spoils can only be used once and its attack hurts one hand. I had no doubt choosing what to discard was powerful, but is it powerful enough to spend $5 on to do it once? I can safely say that yes, it really is worth it. It’s not Witch, but not every $5 card can be the best.

One Use:
   The first thing that apparently makes Pillage weak is its one time use. Usually an attack card is good because it can be played over and over again. The one shot nature of the card means you have to take a different approach to it. The attack isn’t for a lasting effect, at least not directly. The goal of Pillage is to deny the use of key cards in your opponent’s deck. This could be important attack cards or money later in the game, or trashers early in the game. The Spoils allow you to pick up cards on your next shuffle that you missed when you bought Pillage. If you don’t deny important cards with Pillage, you’re more often than not simply slowing down your own deck improvement unless you can turn the Spoils into something permanent.
   If your opponent has a very thin deck, denying him one card may not make a huge difference if he’ll just pick it up next turn again. It may also hurt him a lot if you deny the trasher before the thin deck stage is reached, like denying the first play of Chapel can really slow down your opponent. For the most part though it won’t hurt thin decks that much.
   It also isn’t great against large decks. It requires a lot of luck to Pillage a hand with the Philosopher Stone in it. Pillage is probably best against mid-size decks that are building up an engine. Every card is important during the first few turns. Stopping your opponent’s big draw turn is really powerful, especially when he lined up the +Actions and +Cards for the first time. This means buying Pillage as your first $5 card is probably a very good move on a lot of boards, but buying it later isn’t.
        $5 gainers are also a great for Pillage. University is both +actions and gains you Pillage. Altar turns junk into Pillage. Graverobber and Rogue also gain used Pillages. Graverobber is better, as it topdecks the Pillage, but Rogue can be good too if there are not Pillages in the trash yet as it attacks, possibly hurting your opponent before you even start Pillaging.
   Also, if you’re aiming to hit attack cards in your opponent’s hand, you have to consider simply buying that card yourself. Don’t pass on Witch simply for a chance to discard the other player’s Witch. With good trashing though, you may consider otherwise, simply trashing the incoming curses, and use Pillage to slow down the barrage of Curses.

Spoils:
   This should probably be mentioned in an article on Spoils in general, but I’ll say a few things quickly. These Spoils are not renewable. Bandit Camp is non-terminal and Marauder can be opened with. Pillage needs to turn the Spoils into something useful much more than the other Spoils gainers do. If you get unlucky and draw Spoils with only a copper and nothing else, then you’re either mostly wasting the Spoils if you use them, or not buying anything. Also it should be said that the usual Counterfeit+Spoils combo is not great since the Spoils are not going to be consistently coming into your deck.
   That being said, the one shot spoils are great to buy real Golds, and the attack part should slow down your opponent enough that you can catch up on the time you spent buying and playing Pillage.

When not to go for Pillage:
   There are two things that hurt Pillage bad.
  • Hitting a hand that is already bad
  • Hitting hands where 1 card doesn’t matter
   The first problem is mostly luck based, but can also happen in alt-VP games. Hitting the turn where your opponent has 4VP cards and one Copper sucks so much, because you know his next turn is the one with all the good cards. The luck needed in a successful Pillage can make this card swingy enough to skip in many cases.
   The second reason is more common. Many setups have strong engines. A hand of 2 Villages, 2 Council Rooms probably isn’t hurt much by losing one of those cards. Strong engines are pretty resilient to Pillage, unless hit while they are being built. Also Duration cards should be mentioned, in particular Wharf, Tactician and Caravan. Pillage is strong because you can guarantee a bad hand. With Duration cards you have no idea what he’ll be picking up, so the damage is often of unknown strength, if not minimal.
        Pillage also does not work well with other discard attacks since it can only hit hands with 5 cards or more in them. Playing Pillage first solves the issue slightly, but still weakens the other discarding attack. Cutpurse and Torturer however, if played after Pillage, will still have their full potential because they are non-conditional.

Good with:
-   $5 gainers (University, Altar)
-   Throne Room, King’s Court (Gets more Spoils)
-   Cards that can use the self-trash ability (Market Square, Procession)
-   Watchtower (Getting into play faster, and the spoils faster)
Does not work with:
-   Engines that are faster to set up than Pillage.
-   Slogs or rushes
-   Ultra-thin decks or decks that aren’t hurt much by losing 1 card
-   Duration cards, specifically those that give +cards

31
Dominion Articles / Some points on Armory
« on: April 16, 2013, 12:13:35 pm »
Maybe this has been said in another topic, but I just wanted to say some things I've noticed about Armory.

  • Firstly, it's usually worse than Workshop. I usually use Workshop in Gardens/Feodum games. But topdecking green cards is bad, and the fact that it costs $4 makes it less reachable with so many green cards in your deck.
  • I've noticed that when it's best is Vineyard games. Actually, it's pretty amazing. Because it doesn't actually gain the green cards, it can focus on topdecking things that won't hurt your next turn, like Villages, then other Armories and all those cantrip Actions. It can also topdeck Potions to buy the Vineyards

Come to think of it that's all I had to say. Didn't need or want to write an article, since Armory to too simple for that. Just some observations.

32
Game Reports / Procession-TR-TR-TR
« on: March 19, 2013, 04:33:40 pm »
I was playing a game IRL where my opponent had gotten Witches and Goons before I had Witches, so I was losing badly. Nonetheless, I managed to pull of a really cool TR turn.

I had Procession, Throne Room, Witch, Copper, Copper in hand. I Processioned the TR and TR'd the Witch for +4 cards. I picked up another TR+ Witch, so I used my second use of my first TR on my second TR and then from that one my second witch for another +4 cards. I then picked up a third TR and Merchant Ship, using my second use of my second TR on the third TR and Merchant Ship, giving +$4.

1 action to play 7 cards, giving +8 cards and +$4. Not bad in my opinion.

33
Variants and Fan Cards / Ironmelter + Expansion
« on: March 19, 2013, 12:22:19 am »
I've extended to original post and added 9 new cards. Still need a lot of testing, but some are showing to be fun and interesting. The theme is Card Types, with a sub theme of hybrid action and treasure decks and moving between them. For clarification, card types are Actions, Treasure, Victories, Curses, Shelters, Ruins, Reactions, Attack etc.

Names are themed on a Dominion world moving toward industry, or early factories. Not modern machines, but pulleys or advanced metal working. Something like that. You'll see.

Edited a lot of things.

Cog - Action:
Costs $2
+1 Action
Trash a card from your hand. If it’s an…
Action card gain a Silver into your hand.
Silver gain a Duchy.

EDIT: Changed the effects of trashing. It now works well with itself. It may not be a 2$ card anymore.

Smithing Village – Action:
Costs 2$
+3 Cards
+2 Actions
Discard 4 cards.

Simple card. Just wanted a +2 action in the mix of cards. EDIT: Changed the +cards and discard amount.

Scrap Metal - Action:
Costs $3
Discard 2 Action cards or 2 Treasure cards. If you do, gain a card equal to their combined costs.

EDIT: Removed Self-Trash. Added "only treasures or actions"

Pulley – Action
Costs $3
+1 Card
+1 Action
Reveal your hand. Reveal the top card of your deck. If it does not share types with any cards in your hand, put it into your hand. Otherwise put it back or discard it.

A cantrip that can be a lab. Pulls up things usually in a way you don't need though, hence the $3. One silver won't help much, and 1 action isn't great, unless it's a power card or attack. The discard ability is so that it doesn't have to put VP back on top if you have VP in hand (or whatever you don't need on top of your deck). Still needs some testing, but $3 seems right. Maybe $4, not 100% sure yet. Has a likeness to Wishing Well. EDIT: Changed wording.

Iron Melter  -  Action:
Costs $3
Trash a card from your hand. Gain a differently named card costing the same amount.
If it’s an…
Action +2 Actions
Treasure +$2
Victory +2 Cards

This is from the original post. I changed the price down to $3. Still feels it needs a change since it's only really good in specific setups. As mentioned in the comments, I had an idea to make it a sort of Transmute that isn't so bad.

Laborer – Action – Reaction:
Costs $4
+1 Action
+1$
+1 Buy
-----------------
When another player plays at least 4 cards of one type you may discard this from your hand. If you do, gain a Silver on top of your deck.

EDIT: On hiatus. Other cards are more interesting and probably more useful, so I'll just leave this here unfixed for the world to see. I may come back to it at some point.

Tax – Treasure:
Costs $4
Worth $1
You may trash a treasure card from your hand. Gain an action card costing up to $2 more.

Remodel is $4 and is terminal. This doesn't take an action as it's a treasure and is worth $1. However, it can only trash treasure into actions. Good for turning silvers in $5's, but I feel it's too rigid. I would consider taking out either "Trash only treasure" or "gain only actions." Depends how it plays in future and what people say.

Paper Boy – Action – Attack:
Costs 4$
+$2
Each other player with 5 or more cards in hand reveals the top card of their deck, discards it, and places a card from their hand that does not share types with the discarded card on top of their deck. If all cards share one type, they reveal their hand put a card back on top of their deck.

Strong at the start of the game. It'll either Bureaucrat you, or sort of Cutpurse you, putting the copper back on top. It's good late game too, but in money heavy decks, players will probably just have all money and put their lowest one back on top, or in action heavy decks just be able to draw what ever they put down. Like Cutpurse, good early, ok late but probably better off trashing it depending on what other people do.

Lead Figurine – Action:
Costs $5
Discard any number of cards. +$1 per different card type discarded.
---------------
When you gain this, immediately have a buy phase with +$2 and +1 Buy in which you may use treasure cards that were used to buy this card. This cannot cause you to have more than two consecutive buy phases.

EDIT: As pointed out to me, this card wants to be annoying and confusing. I'm going to remove it.

Protest – Action – Attack:
Costs $5
+$2
Each other player with 5 or more cards in hand reveals two cards that do not share types and discards them. If all their cards share types, they reveal their hand and discard two cards.

This is definitely a strong card. Looks sort of, kind of, like Ghost ship. While you'll probably discard a VP as your first card, you'll have to discard a good card after (or at least something that could be used this turn). Otherwise it's always just a militia, which is usually not a bad card to play. I think it still needs a little boost though, so I may give another small bonus to the attacker, like maybe +buy, not sure. EDIT: Fixed wording.

Otherwise, I still plan to add 2 cards to make 12. I would like a curser, but it's been hard to get one in theme with card types. Any feedback or suggestions will be much appreciated, even if it's negative. Seriously, it's probably the best kind =P

34
Dominion Articles / Marauder
« on: March 18, 2013, 06:06:03 pm »
     I'm not new to Dominion, just to the whole online community. This is my first article on a Dominion card, although I do like to think of myself as a decent writer in general. Before I got all the expansions, I had DA as one of my first and so I've played hundreds of games with those cards. So all in all I know a bit about them.

     I saw somewhere someone saying that Marauder is not a good card because "it's way too slow." I'd like to show that in fact, Marauder is not too slow to attack, and not too slow in gaining Spoils, and is in fact almost a must buy in many kingdoms without lots of attack cards.

Slow attack? I think not!
     
     Sea Hag is great as it can be bought in the first two turns and can deal Curses on top of other people's decks, putting the Curses "into play" very fast. While Marauder is the same $4 price as Sea Hag, it only gives Ruins and not on top of people's decks. Opponents will only get the ruins in their hands on their second reshuffle, which may seem like a long time away, but those ruins hurt more than you think. This is because Ruins, while still giving marginal benefits, are totally pointless in the early game. Great, I can play Ruined Market for +buy. Yay! (The exception being Abandoned Mine, since it can help players early on...ish). And without fast trashing, there is a good chance that the Ruins will stay around for quite a while. If they don't play the Ruins, it has the same effect as a Curse in their hand, which leads to the second point of why early Ruins are still very harmful.
     At the start of the game, playing those action cards you bought is very important to get Golds or $5 cards or whatever else they do. That leaves little time for playing ruins, even if they give you $1 extra to spend, or and extra buy to pick up...um... two Pearl Divers. Most of the time, Ruins are still just junk, so dishing them out early is a good thing. And Chapelling may get rid of them easily, but then your opponents are still left with Coppers or Estates that they didn't get to trash because of the Ruins.
     There are other attacks that hurt more at the start of the game (Militia, Sea Hag etc...), but this is only half the card.

But...Spoils is just a Gold...

   Yes, it is just a Gold, but it's not what Spoils is that matters, it's how you get it. There are two things which make gaining spoils from Marauder a great thing.
     Firstly they help boost your economy, possibly skipping Silvers. Unlike Bandit Camp, you can't rely on playing Marauder every time it comes up, so turning the Spoils into real Gold is essential. But if you buy Marauder on the first two turns, then play it as soon as it comes into your hand, you're looking at a Spoils in your second reshuffle. Is that slow? That's the same as if you had just bought the Gold (Which would require some luck in pulling up 6$ on the third or fourth turn). Sure the Spoils goes away, but just play Marauder again and it's back. Once it's replaced with a real Gold, you can trash Marauder. Now you've got a Gold and your opponent has a bunch of Ruins. Even if you only manage to give him 3-4, that's enough to slow him down for a while, especially without a cheap trashing card.
     Secondly, the "price" of the Spoils is important. Marauder costs $4 and gives you Golds. $4 Gold is a great deal! It costs you an action to keep the Gold, but it gives your opponent Ruins in the process. Just like Bandit Camp is a $5 Gold which gets delayed, Marauder is a $4 Gold that is delayed and costs you an action. It's just a price you pay for how cheap it is.

How to Counter it?

     The best way to counter the junk you'll get is heavy trashing. It's pretty lame I know, but other than Lighthouse or Moat, that's the best way to deal with Ruins so early in the game. You may want to keep some if you're going for a Gardens strategy, but in general you'll want to trash them. If there's no trashing, get a Marauder yourself. There is nothing more boring than playing a game with all 10 Ruins while your opponent uses his cheap Gold to buy the more powerful $5 and $6 cards. What I'm trying to say is don't look at Ruins and think "Oh, they're not that bad. They give me a little effect when I play them." Take them seriously, especially when they can be given to you so fast.

Quick Summary

     In the end, there are faster, better attack cards that can be bought at the start of the game. However, by buying Marauder you guarantee yourself a Spoils(Gold) in your second reshuffle, eliminating luck factor for getting $6, and you give (mostly) useless cards to your opponents. Sea Hag is better, but Marauder is up there in terms of starting cards. The important thing to lookout for is other Marauders, since then everyone will just have tons of Ruins and Spoils.

Works with
- Buying it early
- Counters action based cards like Wandering Minstrel and Golem
- Fast deck cycling
- Scheme or Sage (can skip the Spoils with Sage, but plays Marauder more)

Does not work against
- Other, better, 4$ attack cards
- Opponents Scrying Pools
- Heavy Trashing
- Your Bishops
- Your Rabbles

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