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Topics - Titandrake

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101
So, I reread the Three-Sentence Overview for Hinterlands (http://forum.dominionstrategy.com/index.php?topic=947.msg14427), and thought it would be nice to have an overview for every card that could be used as an introduction to the deeper strategies involved.

However, I'm not insane enough to type one up for every card, so why not let other people do it?

The rules are simple. Name a card, copy-paste it's card effect, and post a 3-sentence overview of it. I'll try to edit them in as they come. Although you are free to do a card that has already been done, try not to. I want every card to have an overview first.

EDIT: Oh god that was a lot of replies fast. Alright, time to start organizing.

---BASE---

Chapel
$2 Action
Trash up to 4 cards from your hand.


Very strong, but you need to pick it up turn 1 or 2 for the best effect. Trash as much as you can early on, then slow down. Not as useful if your deck is mostly money.

Cellar    
$2 Action   
+1 Action
Discard any number of cards.
+1 Card per card discarded.

A mediocre sifter, but hey, what are you expecting at $2. It becomes more powerful when you can increase your handsize (e.g. laboratory, tactician, +cards/+actions engines), but conversely is weakened in the face of handsize reduction attacks. Like all sifters it becomes less useful if you can directly trash the junk in your deck.

Moat    
$2 Action – Reaction    
+2 Cards
When another player plays an Attack card, you may reveal this from your hand. If you do, you are unaffected by that Attack.

Consider the damage you do to your own deck by buying this card before you get it to stop attacks -- +2 cards is a very weak effect to waste a terminal action on. You probably want to bother with this only against the most powerful of attacks. However, this card becomes better in a multiplayer game, as more attacks will hit you between your turns and one Moat can stop them all.

Chancellor
Action - $3
+$2
You may immediately put your deck in your discard pile


Not quite as useless as most beginners suppose, but its cycling power is too weak and unreliable to be worth a buy most of the time.  Chancellor/Stash, however, is an elite combo in Province games without hand reduction.  Does not trigger Tunnels, but can lead to very impressive Inn purchases, and is frequently used in "perfect shuffle luck" solitaire puzzles.

Gardens
Victory - $4
Worth 1 VP for every 10 cards in your deck (rounded down).


A powerful alternative to Provinces. However, make sure the board is right. Only buy it if you have a very good enabler to quickly end the game.

Witch
Action - $5
+2 Cards
Each other player gains a Curse.


The best 5 coin card.
Kills your opponent's deck hard.
Curses are the best.

Adventurer
Action - $6
Reveal cards from your deck until you reveal 2 Treasure cards. Put those Treasure cards in your hand and discard the other revealed cards.


Best when you have a good reason to trash a lot of your coppers. Can help a deck clogged with green or curses, and sometimes good against discard attacks. Often a trap, because you have to pass up a potential gold to get one.

---INTRIGUE---

Masquerade
Action - $3
+2 Cards
Each player passes a card in their hand to the player on their left. You may trash a card from your hand.


A strong Big Money card and unstoppable attack of sorts. One of the few ways to beat Curse-giving Attacks. Play a Militia, Goons, or Margrave before this, if you can.

Baron
Action - $4
+1 Buy
You may discard an Estate card. If you do, +$4. Otherwise, gain an Estate card.


Helps to get an early Gold or Fiver.
If you don't draw it with an Estate, you're very unlucky.
The +Buy is also nice.

Duke
Victory - $5
Worth 1 Victory Point per Duchy you have.


Deceptively strong in most Province games. Buy Duchies at every opportunity while gaining Coppers if you can. Swindler, Thief, and Saboteur hurt more than usual.

Minion
Action--Attack - $5

+1 Action
Choose one: +$2; or discard your hand, +4 Cards; and each other player with at least 5 cards in hand discards his hand and draws 4 cards.


Works best with more copies of itself, and other non-terminals that provide virtual coin. Semi-resistant to cursing but hurt by excess Coppers and Silvers. Ignore at your own peril.

---SEASIDE---

Embargo
+$2
Trash this card. Put an Embargo token on top of a Supply pile.
When a player buys a card, he gains a Curse card per Embargo token on that pile.


A nice combination of early-game control and one-shot virtual money to get to a Gold or $5 card quickly.  Buy this when you're nearly positive about what your opponent is going for and block stacks accordingly, even a common buy such as Silver.  Although taking a single Curse is less of a big deal than hyped up to be, players will hesitate, giving you some control of the game's flow.

---ALCHEMY---

Transmute
Action - $P
Trash a card from your hand.
If it is an...
Action card, gain a Duchy.
Treasure card, gain a Transmute.
Victory card, gain a Gold.


Turning Estates into Gold looks awesome, but the awkward Potion cost make this one of the worst trashers.  You can't get it early,  you're likely wasting the rest of your cash to get this, and turning Coppers into Transmutes is almost always horrible.  However, it is useful as a consolation prize in slow Familiar games, where even just clearing Curses and grabbing Duchies makes a difference, and is very occasionally worth a buy in other curse or Alchemy-heavy sets.

---PROSPERITY---

Goons   
Action – Attack   $6   
+1 Buy; +$2
Each other player discards down to 3 cards in hand.
While this is in play, when you buy a card, +1 VP token.


If you can, buy it. If you can, play it. Spend your time thinking about other cards.

Bank
Treasure - $7
When you play this, it's worth $1 per Treasure card you have in play (counting this).


Takes the right setup to be helpful. In a normal $5-card hand, it's not usually worth more than Gold, and sometimes worth less. In a large hand, it can be worth a ton, but that's usually only really useful if you have +buy to take advantage of it.

Forge
Action - $7
Trash any number of cards from your hand. Gain a card with cost exactly equal to the total cost in coins of the trashed cards.


Relatively weak as a mass trasher because of its high price, and relatively weak as a Remodel variant because of its inflexibility. It can be very powerful, though, in games with large handsize so you can pick and choose what to trash to get the target value you need. Keep in mind ways to achieve your target value: if you want to Forge $8 for Provinces, it helps to plan in advance by having a lot of $4 cards, or a lot of $5s and $3s.

King’s Court
Action - $7
You may choose an Action card in your hand. Play it three times.


Is it considered rude to buy this card?  I have no problem with other players resigning when I buy a few of these.  This is in spite of saying things like "Good lord, I can't believe I got one on turn 3!"

---CORNUCOPIA---

Remake
Action - $4
Do this twice: Trash a card from your hand, then gain a card costing exactly 1 treasure more than the trashed card.


An elite early trasher, since it trims as fast as Steward but also gives you valuable $3 cards (Silver at the very least) for your Estates.  If there are useful engine parts at $3, Fishing Village or Menagerie for instance, it will build your deck even faster than Chapel.  Like most trashers, less useful in BM games and in the late game, but moves like $4 Action --> Duchy can be life-saving.

Hunting Party
Action - $5
+1 Card; +1 Action.
Reveal your hand. Reveal cards from your deck until you reveal a card that isn’t a duplicate of one in your hand. Put it into your hand and discard the rest.


Despite coming from the variety themed expansion, does better with less variety. Best strategy is to amass Hunting Parties with silver, a single Gold and one other source of +$2 or more. Hold off on Duchies an extra turn or two.

---HINTERLANDS---

See link.

---PROMO---

---BASE CARDS---

Technically it's coming out soon, so I'll leave these in.

Gold
Treasure - $6
Worth $3


Very good at giving you enough coin to by provinces. You need two of these plus either a silver or two copper. Even when building an engine, don't forget to get Gold.

Province
Victory - $8
6 Victory Points


Victory points are how you win the game.  Second sentence.  Third sentence.

102
Help! / What happened here?
« on: March 01, 2012, 12:23:09 am »
http://councilroom.com/game?game_id=game-20120229-211805-56b461f4.html

Open 5/2, I go for Minion strategy, get 6 Minions, start off strongish, then my deck just completely collapses.

What I see as the main differences are
1. Mandarin.
2. Not picking up Cartographer early because I prioritized Minion first. Was this a mistake?

But other than that, I can't figure out what happened. We both start greening at about the same time, we both manage to ignore Spice Merchant (I never get to play the one I pick up far too late). Idk. Help?

103
Dominion General Discussion / A far too deep analysis of Bureaucrat
« on: February 29, 2012, 03:04:38 am »
Disclaimer: I'm secretly not actually good at this game. I just pretend I am. I fully expect some debate over whether some of the points made here are valid.

Bureaucrat is a bad card. It's bad enough that it used to be ranked the worst $4 cost. But, opinion about it has changed recently, such that now it's considered closer to mediocre than terrible. Let's minutely look at every part of Bureaucrat, and see if we can figure out why Bureaucrat is bad and why Bureaucrat is good.

The bad

  • Does not directly improve your current hand.

    This is probably the biggest turn-off of Bureaucrat. When you open Smithy, you get to draw a big hand. When you open Masquerade, you get to pass junk and trash the junk you receive, all while maintaining the same hand size. When you open JoAT, you at least draw back up to 5 cards in hand while gaining that Silver. Bureaucrat gives you nothing at all. You effectively play that turn with a 4 card hand.

    What distinguishes Bureaucrat from JoAT is that the Silver is gained on top of the deck, rather than in the discard. So, it's somewhat unfair to look at how it affects the current hand. To get the full picture, you have to look at the benefit added to the next hand. The problem is...
  • The improvement to your next hand is weak.

    Because the Silver is gained on top of your deck, you essentially draw 4 cards from the top of your deck, then draw a Silver. At first glance, this might look like +$2 to your next hand. But it isn't. Consider the following scenarios, from best to worst.

    • 5th card from top of deck is Estate. Drawing a Silver instead of an Estate has improved your hand by +$2. Yay!
    • 5th card from top of deck is Copper. Your next hand improved in value by +$1. Well, better than nothing...
    • 5th card from top is Silver. Next hand has not improved in value. Effectively slows down your reshuffle while doing nothing
    • 5th card from top is Gold. Next hand value -$1. Well that sucks.
    • 5th card from top was an engine component you needed to go off this turn. You kinda deserve this one for playing Bureaucrat in an engine deck.

    I haven't accounted for the hands two turns, three turns, etc. after you play Bureaucrat, or cases where you want weaker hand values (i.e. you'd rather have $6, $8 than $7, $7), but overall my feeling is that on average the net effect is much weaker than a straight up +$2
  • Engine possibilities are dulled down.

    Straightforward. You're gaining more money, which reduces the chance of engine components colliding. Except it's not straightforward. More on that later.

So, if Bureaucrat has all these downsides, why play it?

The good
  • You gain a Silver instead of getting straight up +$2

    Sure, the marginal benefit this shuffle is not very good. But the point of Bureaucrat is that it offers a way to pick up extra Silver on the cheap. The benefits of Bureaucrat increases over time. Consider the money density contributed by Bureaucrat. With 0 plays, it adds +$0 per card. 1 play boosts it to $1 per card. 2 plays brings it to $4/3 per card. The more you play Bureaucrat, the more it improves your money density. However, tellingly, it never quite manages to bring it up to $2 per card that just buying Silver would do. It'll get asymptotically close to $2, but it won't reach $2/card. But if your deck is satisfied with not-quite $2/card over many cards, Bureaucrat gets appealing.

    There's also an interesting engine dynamic to this: if you can gain money from Bureaucrat, you don't have to spend buys picking up the Silver needed to buy engine components. There's going to be a point where Bureaucrat will become a hindrance, but early on picking up a Bureaucrat on an engine board could give you the edge to build up faster. This works out best in a game with early and heavy trashing, where Bureaucrat Silver-gaining can happen even if you turn your current hands into messes that can't buy anything. Trash late and the economy sustaining effects won't matter. Little or weak trashing will cause Bureaucrat to negate most of the benefits of trashing you'll get. This early + strong trashing leaves 2 cards that could synergize: Chapel and Steward. All other trashers will only trash 1 card, or cost $5 or more. But Steward will provide the money you need anyways (which is why Steward feels so useful, now that I think about it). So, Chapel is pretty much your only option for this scenario


  • The attack slows down your opponent.

    Let's get this out of the way first: You aren't going to chain Bureaucrats. If you can reliably chain Bureaucrats, there are just sooooo many better actions you could be chaining in a deck that manages to keep firing while gaining large amounts of Silver. So, we'll only consider the one play of Bureaucrat.

    Similarly to how Bureaucrat affects you, playing Bureaucrat does not affect your opponent's turn. S/he really didn't need that Victory card to play their hand. Bureaucrat turns your opponent's next hand into a 4 card hand, as a mini-Ghost Ship.

    A 4 card hand isn't a particularly strong attack. So, when is Bureaucrat's attack useful? Well, it's primarily useful when it actually hits. In most games, the odds of Bureaucrat hitting a Victory card decrease sharply. So, the attack gets better when your opponent does a strategy that gets Victory cards fast. Hybrid cards, Gardens, and Silk Road come to mind.

    It's also useful when Victory cards are good to have in hand. The main three cases for this are when you want to play a hybrid card, when you have a trasher in hand, and when you have something like Vault, Cellar, or Warehouse to change a useless card in hand into a benefit. However, it's worth noting that you have just as good a chance to push a green card from a hand that doesn't want it to a hand that does.

In conclusion, Bureaucrat isn't for every game. In Big Money, there's usually a much better card to get over Bureaucrat: It takes Bureaucrat 4 plays to contribute the $1.6/card baseline Province decks want, and by then the game should wrapping up. In engine games, Bureaucrat can be useful, but usually requires some good trashing support, which has the unfortunate tendency to make the attack part of Bureaucrat not work. The case where it seems to shine the most is in alternative VP strategies. The lower money density doesn't matter as much, the smoothing out effect over multiple cards is a strong point, and the attack is relevant for much of the game. But apart from those games, Bureaucrat just doesn't cut it.

Works with:
  • Duke
  • Gardens
  • Silk Road
  • Engine games with Chapel.
  • Opponents going for strategies that are helped by Victory cards

Conflicts with:
  • Engine boards with any other trashing card whatsoever
  • Most BM boards. There's usually a stronger alternative, and the Bureaucrat attack will do little.
  • Loan. Reveals the Silver you just gained

105
Variants and Fan Cards / Let's mess with turn 1!
« on: January 24, 2012, 08:55:03 pm »
Forbidden Knowledge
$2
Action
Discard any number of cards from your hand. +$1 for each card discarded.
---
If this card is in the supply, at the start of your first turn you may draw a card and gain a Curse. Repeat this process as many times as you wish.

I randomly got the idea, then started thinking it through and realizing it might not be incredibly silly.

Let's say you want a Gold turn 1. With a hand of $5, on average you gain 2 Curses for that Gold.
If you want a $5 cost with a hand of $4, on average you gain 1.9 Curses for that $5 cost.
And I'm not going to bother with the other possibilities.

Unless my math is faulty, those are some pretty big handicaps. If you think the Gold is worth it, then you start running into some variance issues. Got 2/5 instead of 5/2? Sucks to be you.

As for the action itself, I haven't really thought about what you want for that yet. So I just made it something similar to Secret Chamber.

Thoughts?

EDIT: So the way this is worded right now, you could theoretically empty out the Curses turn 1. However, I can't think of a situation where you'd want to, so I think that insane pile-ending is okay here.

106
Game Reports / Wait, how'd I win a game without buying Grand Market?
« on: January 18, 2012, 11:32:15 pm »
http://dominion.isotropic.org/gamelog/201201/18/game-20120118-200838-5a74cf74.html

cards in supply: Crossroads, Grand Market, Great Hall, Herbalist, Library, Masquerade, Rabble, Salvager, Smugglers, and Walled Village

Plan going in: Open Masq/Silver and start with Big Money, get those GM, then make a draw engine with Rabble, Villages, and maybe Crossroads/Great Hall

Well, I play against a person who prioritized getting Rabble first, as well as picking up a Smugglers. Which was a very good call: I just couldn't bring myself to buy Smugglers though, I wanted the Rabble/Gold/Walled Villages too much.

So the engine starts up faster than I'm expecting, and with 2 Masquerades his/her deck is shedding cards like clockwork. Although that crazy deck trashing starts helping me: I got a free Gold and Walled Village off my Masquerade...

By the time I first get Grand Market money, I'm down 0-2 on Grand Markets. And then I decide to just buy a Province instead.

-The long term does not favor me at all because of GM snowball
-Smugglers has been getting so many good cards, and I bet if I get a GM, it's going to get Smuggled, the engine's too consistent

So I decide forget Grand Market, let's rush Provinces and hope my Province buying speed gets underestimated, or that getting all the Grand Markets is too alluring. And somehow, it works. Definitely should not have won this one, but oh well.

107
Dominion General Discussion / Amb/Amb or Amb/Silver?
« on: January 16, 2012, 02:03:17 pm »
I've seen this debate happen a few times, and I'm still not sure which is better...

Pros of Amb/Amb
+ If they don't collide, you start the match with an early "tennis lead", which can snowball pretty quickly, especially if you can pick up a village.

Cons of Amb/Amb
-Early economy is kaput even more than normal. You're rarely getting a $5 card before the 2nd reshuffle
-If they collide, your early economy is REALLY kaput. Doesn't matter how slim your deck is, if their deck is reasonably sized and has 3 more Golds you're probably going to lose.

Pros of Amb/Silver
+ Early economy boost useful if there are some higher cost cards you need fast

Cons of Amb/Silver
-If the other player gets Amb/Amb and they don't collide, you're in a bad spot.
-Your early economy boost might not mean much, since you want a 2nd Ambassador on turn 3/4 anyways.

Does anyone here have more to comment on/say about this? Or how about Amb/non-terminal $4 openings?

108
Help! / Remodel in a Minion/Loan game
« on: January 05, 2012, 11:55:14 pm »
http://dominion.isotropic.org/gamelog/201201/05/game-20120105-204451-f6024926.html

I'll edit in the CouncilRoom Log once it's up. EDIT: Here it is

http://councilroom.com/game?game_id=game-20120105-204451-f6024926.html

King's Court, Governor, Minion, and Loan are all in the kingdom. Very clearly going to become insane.

I opt for Loan/Silver, Wobbles opens Loan/Remodel. Wasn't quite sure what to make of that. I thought that would slow down the rate of Minion gaining too much to be worth it.

I get an early Minion lead, buy a second loan, then embargo Loan. First blunder was probably buying Minion instead of KC with $8. My only other action was Minion, so I didn't think it was worth it. But it was going to be worth it later, so...

Anyways, Wobbles Remodels Estates into more Remodels, picking up some Minions and King's Courts. I think the turning point starts at turn 14. He KC-Remodel two turns in a row, gaining 2 Governors, a Remodel, a Hoard, and an Embargo. From turn 16, it all goes downhill. He gets a massive turn, Embargoes Governor twice, embargoes Province twice, gains 3 Embargos and a Governor by Remodeling, then Embargoes Remodel for good measure. In a couple of turns, Provinces are embargoed 7 times, any card I want to buy is embargoed at least twice, and I have no remodels as work arounds. Governor quickly gains Provinces, and Remodels end the game.

I don't really know what I could have done better, aside seeing Remodel as a source of +buy. Any tips?

109
Game Reports / Saboteur: Counters Fool's Gold strategies?
« on: December 21, 2011, 03:32:14 am »
So, I just played this game
http://dominion.isotropic.org/gamelog/201112/21/game-20111221-001722-02f9bb77.html

I decide Bridge/Fool's Gold, RomaNorgy does Saboteur/-. I do a standard "buy lots of Fool's Golds, buy Provinces" deck.

Roma goes for an early Saboteur attack that transitions into a deck that wants to do heavy Saboteur damage. From what I could tell, it uses extra actions to play a bunch of Bridges and Saboteurs, uses Bridge money to buy more components, and eventually leads to Saboteurs that will only hit Provinces. Turns out that setting up that engine is too slow.

However, the interesting bit is around the early/mid-game: In a pure Fool's Gold deck, the only Saboteur targets are the Provinces. This is both good and bad: you always hit VP, but you never hit the buying power. In this game I lost 4 Provinces to Saboteur, not to mention the Golds and Duchies I lost after I gained those as a replacement.

If this game shows anything, it's that in a Fool's Gold board you can't let your opponent get all the Fool's Gold. I'm pretty sure no amount of Saboteuring stops you once you have 10 Fool's Gold. But if you bought some Fool's Gold yourself (say 3-4), and got a Saboteur as well, would that make up for the bad Fool's Gold split?

110
Council Room Feedback / 11 Fool's Gold, -1 Hamlets
« on: December 20, 2011, 04:40:16 am »
http://councilroom.com/search_result?p1_name=Titandrake&p2_name=freshlunch&kingdom=

http://councilroom.com/game?game_id=game-20111217-225913-eed890e9.html

Not really any major issues, just thought it was funny. From what I see, the -1 Hamlet comes from buying it from Black Market, because Council Room doesn't track what's in the Black Market deck. And 11 Fool's Gold comes because one of them was Theived and gained. So, because the Fool's Gold is gained, the amount in Supply drops by 1, so supply is -1 and there must be 10 - (-1) = 11 in play.

Unless my guesswork is wrong, in which case I'd like to know how I spawned a card out of nowhere.

111
Puzzles and Challenges / ABC
« on: November 27, 2011, 07:04:52 pm »
In a solitaire game with the following rules:
1. Perfect shuffle luck
2. Actions must be played in alphabetical order
have all 8 Colonies in your deck in as few turns as possible.

Notes on the 2nd rule: TR and KC still play the action, so KC-Bridge is not valid because Bridge is before KC. Additionally, something like KC-KC-Woodcutter-Woodcutter-Woodcutter is not allowed because the play order is

KC -KC (1st copy) - 3 Woodcutter copies - KC (2nd copy) ...
which is not in alphabetical order.

If playing an action would force you to play actions out of alphabetical order (as with Golem or Throne Room), you may not play that action.

Finally, as a benchmark, my current solution gets 8 Colonies in 10 turns.

112
Variants and Fan Cards / I'm bored: here's a rules nightmare
« on: November 26, 2011, 01:16:30 am »
Implosion
Cost: $4
Action-Duration
This turn and next turn:
All treasure cards are actions. Their text is "+1 Action. Draw cards equal to how much this card would normally be worth."
All non-treasure cards not named Implosion are Treasures. Their text is "+$ equal to half the cost of this card, rounded down."
(This affects all players)

I am actually considering this as a card, but I am positive there are plenty of reasons not to use it. Let's see who will come up with the most compelling arguments, shall we?

113
Game Reports / Aggressive Noble Brigand Opening
« on: November 24, 2011, 02:03:30 am »
I just played this game, and would like some thoughts on it.

http://dominion.isotropic.org/gamelog/201111/23/game-20111123-224750-0476a4cf.html

This board was dominated by KC/Grand Market. So, I decide to open Oasis/Silver, buy Bazaars to add non-Copper sources of money while keeping action-density high, then get KC and Grand Market and go nuts.

DarkkeyBoard follows the same general strategy, except opens Noble Brigand/Silver, and proceeds to buy 4 (!) Noble Brigands over the course of the game. They give me a few extra coppers and eat away my Silver. He (or she) then buys a bunch of Bazaars as well, which give the actions to play Noble Brigand repeatedly over the course of the game to steal any Silvers and Golds I have. The net result of this is that the GM split is 3/7, and I only win because of 1st turn advantage + the only KC-KC of the game.

I think buying Noble Brigand early here was the right move. Everything lined up so perfectly. Noble Brigand feeds Copper while taking non-Copper treasure, which is exactly what you want to deny GM money. So, my question is, "On what boards is aggressive Noble Brigand good?"

114
Dominion Articles / Apprentice
« on: November 20, 2011, 02:18:41 am »
Apprentice is one of those cards that is straight-up powerful. It is a heavy game-accelerator, likely one of the fastest, and has excellent utility overall.

First of all, Apprentice is a trash-for-benefit. All the trash-for-benefit cards speed up the game, but Apprentice does it on a new level. This is because Apprentice
1. Keeps the deck small
2. Is non-terminal, so multiple Apprentices are chainable
3. Cycles through the deck very quickly, both by drawing cards and trashing cards.

Generally, the only reason you should be Apprenticing Coppers is if you already have enough money for what you plan to buy this turn. It's not worth Cutpursing yourself for absolutely no benefit. Apprentice is much better used on cards that cost >$0. Even in the worst case scenario, trashing a 2 cost gives you net +0 cards, which isn't a terrible price for getting rid of an Estate.

As an example, consider Apprentice-trash Silver, which is usually your choice of trashed card. This gives a net +1 Card, on par with Lab. But more importantly, it does so while keeping the deck small. Although you do lose a Silver, there is a good chance of you gaining a Gold in it's place thanks to the cards you just drew. Do this enough times, and eventually you will have enough Gold to be able to afford to trash those. At that point, Apprentice just becomes insane.

http://dominion.isotropic.org/gamelog/201111/19/game-20111119-224955-0e112a2a.html

The above is a solitaire Big-Money Apprentice game I played, which shares some similarities with Annotated Game #2. It gets 4 Provinces by turn 12, then does Apprentice -trash Gold/Province before the deck stalls too much to quickly empty the Province the pile. You want more than 1 Apprentice in your deck. I follow "Buy the 2nd Apprentice after the first Gold", although I personally don't know when you should buy it.

The other less explored part of Apprentice is using it to minimize the effect of terminal collisions. Apprentice is unique in that it handles terminal collisions pretty well: just trash one of them! This allows you to overbuy a terminal, play it more often than normal, then use it as Apprentice fuel when you don't need it anymore. See the Apprentice/Sea Hag topic for a potential application. There are likely other cards you could use for this, but whatever terminal you use, it has to be strong, strong enough to make it better than going for Big Money.

Apprentice tends to work the best when you have a source of +Buy to use your large card draws on, which has the added effect of fueling your Apprentices even more. They tend not to work as well in Curse games, where both your supply of >$0 cost cards and your general card quality make Apprentice chains much more difficult.

And just for fun, here's a game of debatable merit where I tried some Apprentice/Trader shenanigans. Lots of free Silver, right?

http://councilroom.com/game?game_id=game-20111103-011729-ff0462cb.html


115
Puzzles and Challenges / Two Puzzles I Don't Know the Answer to
« on: November 17, 2011, 01:16:00 am »
1. In a solitaire game with perfect shuffle luck, what is the minimum number of turns needed to empty the Copper supply pile?

2. Same as the above, except empty the Gold supply instead.

Notes:
You do not necessarily need to have all the treasure in your deck, as long as the supply is empty.
Outpost and Possession turns count.
Solitaire only tricks (like playing Envoy and choosing for yourself) are allowed, because why not.

Bonuses: Can you beat 6 turns for Silver, and 5 turns for Platinum?

116
Variants and Fan Cards / Yet another oddball card
« on: November 10, 2011, 12:53:57 pm »
You know, earlier I said I would spare posting every card from the custom set I'm working on, and would only post the tricky ones. Well, it seems like I'm posting cards from there in installments.

Rebirth
Cost: $7
Action
Choose 10 cards you own. Set those cards aside, trash the rest, and put all cards set aside this way in your discard pile.


Rulebook: Cards you own means cards in your deck, discard pile, hand, in play, or set aside by another effect (i.e. Island).

Random thoughts on it (once again, I haven't had the time to playtest it's effect thoroughly enough):

Cost is up in the air. Priced it at $7 because it's an odd effect, because you don't want it until later in the game, and because it compares to Forge reasonably well. It leads to interesting scenarios where you can buy the components of an engine that normally would be too slow, and then start it up in one shot. On the other hand, $7 is a really high cost to have that happen. You could choose to keep Rebirth in your new starting 10, but playing it effectively takes away your current turn, and it gets better when your deck is bigger, so repeated plays probably are not optimal. Well, unless you have enough money producing actions, and then it seems like Tactician silliness is better.

Each turn, you presumably buy 1 card (ignore +Buy for now). So for each turn that has passed, Rebirth has the potential to trash one more card from your deck. Which is actually not terrible, now that I think of it

117
Variants and Fan Cards / Notes About Set Design
« on: October 29, 2011, 01:55:55 am »
Disclaimer: I in no way claim I am a professional designer, or even an average one.

Seems like there are multiple people who are considering making custom sets. This is a list of various pointers to help with the designing process.

1. The set needs a theme.

So far, the official Dominion expansions have had the following mechanical themes.

Intrigue: Choices
Seaside: Durations
Alchemy: Potion costs
Prosperity: VP tokens
Cornucopia: Rewarding variety
Hinterlands: Effect on gaining/buying

I'm ignoring Base because it was the first set. You could argue its theme is simplicity.

A mechanical theme keeps the set together, and makes sure each set is distinguishable from the next. This also has the effect of allowing the players to choose the gameplay they want, by selecting sets with effects that they want to play with.

Sets should have a flavor theme as well. Dominion is not a purely mechanical game; a card like Witch or Thief would initially feel different if they were named something else. However, flavor tends to be easier to add, as the name of the card can always be adjusted, and to be honest not all cards have names that make sense.

2. Do not forget bread and butter effects.
If you have not read the stickied Fan Card Creation Guide, you should. It does a good job of describing what a card should and should not do.

What it does not address is how cards interact with each other. For instance, say you have a batch of 20 well-designed, balanced cards. You decide to try playing with these cards. And the experience is awful. Why? Because although all your cards are good, you have no Village effects. Or you have no good card draw. Or you are missing some other general effect that is part of what makes Dominion play the way it is.

As far as I remember (and you can correct me if this is wrong), all Dominion sets have the following cards:

Cards with +2 Actions or more.
Actions that are terminal Silvers with a bonus.
A card that gives out curses.
A card that gives terminal card draw.
A card that synergizes with itself (i.e. a one card engine.)
A card that trims the deck.
A card that gives +Buy.

Some of these effects need to show up more often than others (you don't 10 trashers in one set, and you need more than 1 +buy card in a set). But all of these effects should show up at least once.

3. Playtest the set. With other people. A lot.
It seems that the one constant about card design is that without playtesting, we are terrible at judging power levels. Don't get me wrong, it doesn't take a genius to know that a $2 cost Action that gives +5 Cards, +3 Actions is horribly broken. But it's difficult to see how an idea plays out without actually playing it.

I had other stuff to say, but I seem to have forgotten what it was. I'll edit it in if I remember it, I think I typed enough of a text wall already.

118
This may get updated at a somewhat frequent rate. Who knows! Many of these cards are potentially in a custom set, so they are meant to be somewhat balanced.

Modal card idea = A card that has more than one possible effect (ex Minion, Pawn, Menagerie)

Commoner's Pride
Cost: 4
Action
Reveal your hand. If there are no cards costing $5 or more, +3 cards. Otherwise, +2 cards, +$1


It was originally 2 cards and +$2 if you had card costing $5 or more, but then I'm pretty sure it would be way too good. However, the value does drop off in the late game quite drastically, so it might need it.

War
Cost: 4
Action
+1 Card
+2 Actions

Each player simultaneously reveals the top card of their draw pile. If the card you revealed has the highest cost, +$1 (Ties count as wins)


In it's current state, absolutely no cost balancing can happen because of Village and Bazaar. I vaguely remember seeing a card similar to this in really bad card ideas. Hopefully I didn't accidentally rip someone off...

Satchel
Cost: 4
Action
Reveal the top card of your draw pile

If it is a treasure card, +$1 and play that treasure.
If it is a victory card, +4 cards.
If it is an action card, +1 card, +2 actions.
If it is a Curse, you may trash it.


Ohhhhhh boy. Based off an MtG card of a similar name. Originally, the card was +$2 if treasure, +3 cards if victory, with the rest the same as the current version. However, after I tried testing it a bit, it felt weak. It was still runnable, but the problem was that whatever effect you got was an effect you could have gotten from a card that costed less than $4. Additionally, you had little control over the effect, so you couldn't try to build an engine around it.

To make the randomness worth it, you have to make at least some parts  better than $4. So, it's either a Venture, a draw 4 which guarantees drawing at least one victory card, a village that guarantees you have an action to use the added actions, or a mini-trasher. It looks dangerous, and I'm still a bit scared about the power level, but I think the lack of control makes it safe.


119
Variants and Fan Cards / Very very silly card
« on: October 12, 2011, 12:12:26 am »
Wheeeeee!
Cost: 4
Victory
Setup: At the start of the game, each player secretly writes down a prediction for his or her total VP at the end of the game.
This is worth 4 VP if your total VP is within 3 of your prediction. Otherwise, worth 2 VP (do not include this card when finding total VP).

Wheee! This came about because I like the idea of having a secret goal from the start of the game. Or maybe I like subgames too much. There are so many possible tweaks that actually balancing this is probably insane, and that might detract from the fun anyways.

You could write down a low number if there's something like Woodcutter and go for ending the game quickly. Or you could just buy it as a bonus if you happen to get close.

Edit: Added a baseline if you get the prediction wrong, otherwise would be a bit too punishing.

120
Variants and Fan Cards / Bit of a silly idea
« on: September 29, 2011, 12:43:49 pm »
Jewels
Cost: $3
Treasure

When you play this, reveal a card from your hand. This is worth half the cost of the revealed card, rounded down.

I do want to make this card work. However, it currently has some issues. You basically never want this card early on, because it's not more than a Silver unless you have an unplayed action that is $4 plus. But it the late game it suddenly becomes amazing.

Might be better to make it discard the revealed card, although in that case it's not useful until you're getting victory cards (who wants to discard gold?)

121
Variants and Fan Cards / How much does information cost?
« on: September 27, 2011, 02:31:49 am »
Just a random idea I've been thinking about.

Telescope
Cost: ?
Action - Perpetual (This stays in play during the cleanup phase)
On the turn you play this, +1 Action
While this is in play, each other player reveals their hand.

At what cost would you consider buying this?

My current guess is $3. I haven't tried playtesting this card at all, although I tried testing a version that was a Duration card, which revealed everyone's hand and replaced itself for $2. I never had a good justification to buy it. However, changing it to last the entire game makes it a lot more significant. I'd imagine it would clearly be more valuable in certain games than others (in a Big Money game the Silver is probably going to be better). However, I can't think of a game where I would want to buy this for $5+.

122
Game Reports / I notice I am confused
« on: September 22, 2011, 09:43:10 pm »
(MoR reference! Yay!)

http://dominion.isotropic.org/gamelog/201109/22/game-20110922-183339-7993dbc3.html

I miscounted VP at the end, which cost me the game. Even so, I was terribly confused for the entire game anyways.

Maybe someone can figure out the dominant strategy for this. For instance, Minion + Salvager + Peddler looks promising...

123
Variants and Fan Cards / Best way to playtest cards?
« on: September 15, 2011, 08:28:11 pm »
I think it's pretty clear that judging how Dominion cards play without actually playing them can be inaccurate. However, I don't have any good methods for playtesting cards.

I can't make very good proxies because I don't have that much good cardstock. Can't use isotropic, because it doesn't support custom cards. And using general CCG software works, but is pretty annoying to set up and play with because you're forced to do all the rule enforcing yourself.

The point being, is there a nice way to playtest cards I haven't seen yet?


124
Dominion Articles / So You're Losing
« on: September 09, 2011, 01:25:05 am »
You were winning, but now you're suddenly losing quite badly. Or maybe you were losing from the start. Either way, isn't your day. Here's some tips.

Case 1: Your openings are different
Let's say you open 5/2 instead of the 3/4 you wanted, in a game with Steward. The early trashing from Steward is key, and unfortunately if you want it, you're going to have to buy nothing with your 2. So don't open Steward unless you have to. Presumably your opponent will open Steward/Silver, or some variant thereof. If you try to follow the same opening as your opponent without the silver, you're purposefully placing yourself in a worse position from the start. Try to see if there are any other cards, particularly $5 cards, that are reasonable openings. If there is really no better alternative, buy the Steward, and hope you have better luck or enough play skill to overcome the gap. Even if there is a $5 card you want, you still want to pick up a Steward turn 3 or 4 though, because it's too strong to ignore entirely.

Case 2: Your opponent is ahead 2 or more provinces
It's hard to explain how exactly you want to play in this situation. On one hand, if you don't buy duchies, you're going to get blown out when the other player buys them. But if you buy too many, your deck will just die, and you won't be able to do anything. Remember that your opponent's deck is getting clogged as well. Watch to see if their deck seems to falter or slow down. You will want to buy more duchies than you think you need. However, if your opponent's deck has faltered, and you're near a reshuffle, consider getting a Gold over a Duchy. This increases your variance for the better. If you have enough good cards, you'll have a reasonable chance of drawing a pretty good hand that can help swing the game.

Case 3: You were ahead, but now you're not
The best way to deal with this by far is to try not to have it happen in the first place. If you're ahead by a comfortable amount, you can afford to buy one or two non-victory cards. Although this doesn't help increase your lead, it does help you improve your deck's ability to continue functioning, especially if it's an engine deck that requires certain combinations of cards.

If you're already in this situation, it likely happened because your deck has stalled, often because of all the victory cards you've been buying. Unfortunately, if you had a lead, then lost it, the game is probably going to end very soon. Play like you normally would, except you're probably going to break the PPR. Your goal at this point should be to last long enough to trigger a reshuffle, because that gives you a second chance at drawing a good hand.

Above all else, remember that it's not the end of the world if you lose.  :)

Edited to fix typos, missing words, etc.

125
Variants and Fan Cards / Is this broken?
« on: September 05, 2011, 04:24:22 am »
Goop
Costs $3
Action - Attack
+$2, trash a card. each other player gains a goop

I suspect the +$2 is too strong. It might be more balanced at $1, but I don't know how to evaluate it, especially for 3 or 4 player games. Or maybe cost should go up to $4 to avoid double openings? Part of a custom set, but I'll spare posting every single card and just post the cards I think are especially tricky.

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