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Messages - Raeven

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1
Game Reports / Re: Sabotuer is a terrible card
« on: July 06, 2011, 11:54:56 am »
I was in a game recently where Saboteur became pretty devastating.  I don't remember the whole board, but basically two things played a big factor.  First, there were no +action or +cards action cards available (except cantrips).  Second, golem was on the board.  This meant that there were regularly 2 saboteurs being played per turn.  It was basically impossible to get anything going money-wise and victory cards were a guaranteed wast of time.  After some frustration, I tried to run out estates, but my opponent was able to get a couple of duchies at the end.

2
Game Reports / Re: Black Market is Evil (Epic Win)
« on: July 05, 2011, 01:08:41 pm »
I agree that playing a bunch of bridges isn't that spectacular.  To clarify, what I thought was neat about this particular game was that I was able to use the King's Court on the same turn that I bought it to end the game when my opponent had no reason to suspect that he had already taken his last turn.

3
Game Reports / Black Market is Evil (Epic Win)
« on: July 02, 2011, 11:54:39 am »
3 of the cards that made this possible were off the black market (Tactician, Laboratory, KC).   

Turn 13

You draw a Native Village, a Bridge, a Copper, a Silver, and a Watchtower and get +1 action and +1 buy from your Tactician.
You play a Native Village.
... You get +2 actions.
... Your Native Village mat contains nothing.
... You draw a Remake and add it to the Native Village mat.
You play a Native Village.
... You get +2 actions.
... Your Native Village mat contains a Remake.
... You draw a Copper and add it to the Native Village mat.
You play a Laboratory.
... You draw a Native Village and a Bridge and get +1 action.
You play a Native Village.
... You get +2 actions.
... Your Native Village mat contains a Copper and a Remake.
... You put the mat contents into your hand.
You play a Bridge.
... You get +1 buy, +$1, and all costs are reduced by $1.
You play a Bridge.
... You get +1 buy, +$1, and all costs are reduced by $1.
You play a Black Market.
... You get +$2.
... You draw a Pawn, a King's Court, and a Masquerade from the Black Market deck.
... You play a Gold, 2 Silvers, and 2 Coppers.
... You buy a King's Court.
... ... You reveal a Watchtower.
... ... You put the King's Court on your deck.
... You return a Pawn and a Masquerade to the bottom of the Black Market deck.
You play a Watchtower.
... You draw a Gold, a Native Village, a Bank, a King's Court, and a Watchtower.
You play a Native Village.
... You get +2 actions.
... Your Native Village mat contains nothing.
... You draw a Native Village and add it to the Native Village mat.
You play a Watchtower.
... You draw a Native Village and a Worker's Village.
You play a Worker's Village.
... You draw a Bridge and get +2 actions and +1 buy.
You play a Native Village.
... You get +2 actions.
... Your Native Village mat contains a Native Village.
... You put the mat contents into your hand.
You play a King's Court.
... You play a Bridge.
... ... You get +1 buy, +$1, and all costs are reduced by $1.
... You play the Bridge again.
... ... You get +1 buy, +$1, and all costs are reduced by $1.
... You play the Bridge a third time.
... ... You get +1 buy, +$1, and all costs are reduced by $1.
You play a Gold.
You play a Bank.
... which is worth +$7.
You buy a Province.
You buy a Province.
You buy a Province.
You buy a Province.
You buy a Province.
You buy a Province.
You buy a Province.
(You reshuffle.)

4
Dominion General Discussion / Card Counting Strategies
« on: June 15, 2011, 05:23:25 pm »
Anybody have little tricks that they use to count cards during the game?  I'm pretty good at keeping track of the victory card count in a 2 player game, but that's the easy stuff. 

What I'm interested in is a way to keep track of the per card value of your deck.  I tried a +/- system that sort of works but that is hard to keep track of.  The rules are pretty basic and the math is distorted, but it can give a rough approximation of deck value:

Each card starts with a -1
For each +cash, you give a +1
For each +card, you give a +1 (because it means the card replaces itself)

Thus, the opening deck starts as a -3 (3 estates = -3; 7 coppers = -7+7 = 0)

If you were to buy silvers on your first 3 turns then the deck would then be a 0, which essentially means that your average card value is 1 (3 estates = -3; 7 coppers = -7+7 = 0; 3 silvers = -3+6 = +3)

If you were to buy villages on your first 3 turns then the deck would still be a -3 (3 estates = -3; 7 coppers = -7+7 = 0; 3 villages = -3+3 = 0)

If you were to buy saboteurs on your first 3 turns then the deck would be a -6 (3 estates = -3; 7 coppers = -7+7 = 0; 3 saboteurs = -3)

To figure out the average card value of your deck, you divide the +/- difference from zero by the total number of cards in your deck and add 1. (so the above examples would be 0.7, 1.0, .77 and .54)

The problem with this approach is that it's not complicated enough to be truly accurate, and it's not easy enough to be executable on the fly.

Another weakness is that +cards shouldn't really count as a +1 because its effect is not linear (+cards is more valuable the more monetarily valuable your deck already is).

5
Game Reports / Re: Mint Fail
« on: June 15, 2011, 04:51:24 pm »
First two turns were shanty town / potion.  ST was the only card on the board with +action or +cards.  I thought I was going to thin out the deck and chain ST (as a poor man's city) while avoiding most of the other actions.  I just thinned out too quick.  The potion purchase was also a mistake (going after golem). 

6
Game Reports / Mint Fail
« on: June 15, 2011, 10:44:13 am »
Not that anybody needs to be told this, but don't Mint away five coppers on turn 3 if you haven't bought any coins or coin producing actions yet.  I spent the next couple of turns minting to reproduce coppers before I could even buy a silver.  I've never resigned a game before, but came close on that one.

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